A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.

The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.

Overview

At the eastern part of the Sella massive at the dolomites, the interesting but somewhat unknown area of the Valbon mountains are offering a wide range of climbing and mountaineering. One of the most important summits of that area is the Boèseekofel. The mountain has different sides: a very wild, seldom visited, steep and high NW-face and a lower, more enjoyable S-face and finally a mostly harmless E-flank. Other peaks at this part of the Sella are the Neuner (2904 m, Sass dals Nü, Sasso delle Nove) and the Zehner (2916 m, Sass dals Diesc, Sasso delle Dieci). Between Zehner and Boèseekofel there is the Moserscharte. It's unknown who have done the first ascent of this mountain.

At the E-face of the Boèseekofel the regular route (an easy hike-up) and an often done Via Ferrata can be found. Both of them are very nice, not so difficult routes of their kind of routes. The Via Ferrata has one short, steep and exposed part, most of the rest is much easier. Both, regular route and the Via ferrata, have short and easy approches from the upper station of the Vallon chair-lift or from the F.-Kostner hut.

The S-face is also approched from the Vallon chair-lift or from the F.-Kostner hut but at this face even the easiest routes needs serious climbing. This side offers some very (very !) good climbing routes, most of them with one little problem: they are often wet. So with exception of some routes best time to climb one of those routes is late summer or autumn.

The NW-face is rising about 600 m above the Val de Mesdi and the routes there are very "alpine". This means: less pitons, problems to find the correct way up but great climbing at a great landscape.

Getting There

For E-face and S-face trailhead is Corvara. From Corvara take the cable car to Crep de Munt (the lower station is close to the western end of the town). For the regular hike-up route a marked trail starts west behind the cable car station at Crep de Munt. For the Via Ferrata and tzeh climbs of the S-face from Crep de Munt one takes the Valbon chair-lift. From the top of this chair lift the base of the different routes and the Via Ferrata is reached on a good and clearly visible trail (it's obvious).

The approach to the NW-face is also done from Colfuschg (close to Corvara) using the trail (number 651) at the Val de Mesdi. This trail is starting at the campground of the town and winds up to the Val de mesdi.

Corvara/Colfuschg can be reached from different sides. From Bozen (Bolzano) drive to St. Ulrich at the Grödnertal (Val Gardena) and
continue to Corvara/Colfuschg crossing the Grödner-Joch. From south (e.g. Trento (Trient)) travel through the Val di Fassa, head up the Pordoi-Joch, reach Arabba and then take the road over the Passo di Campolongo to Corvara/Colfuschg. Also from Cortina d'Ampezzo travel to Arabba -> Passo di Campolongo -> Corvara/Colfuschg.

There is a public transport system at the Dolomiten, but for climbing it's very much easier to use a car.

Red Tape

No red tape. Fee for the cable car and chair-lift, this can be avoided if you hike up (but no one will do that, it's a long way to go ...).

When To Climb

Summer

Camping

There are different campsites at Canazei, Campitello, St. Ulrich (Ortisei) and at the Fassa-valley. From Cortina d'Ampezzo (3 campsites) it is a lonmg way to go to the Boèseekofel

A very good place for a multi-day trip to the Valbon area is the F.-Kostner hut. It's easy to reach that hut: as for the Boèseekofel take the cable car to Crep de Munt from Corvara and then take the Valbon chair-lift (or hike up from Crep de Munt in about 1 hour).

Mountain Conditions

Good place with lot of informations are this Homepage of the Fassa-valley.

And there is another Homepage with lots of informations to the Fassa-valley.

The weather forecast for the region can be seen here: Weatherforcast Trentino.

Routes

There are about 18 different routes at the Boèseekofel, here are some of them. All routes are protected as usual at the
dolomites: no bolts !!! Even the stances are not bolted. Bring rocks, slings, friends. And maybe the usage of a hammer and pitons may be a also good ideaon some of the routes ...

E-flank

Regular Route: an easy hike-up on a well marked path, 2-3 hours from Crep de Munt (cable car station)
Via Frerrata: one steep and exposed part, mostly easy, 1-2 hours from the Valbon chair lift, very dangerout in case of thunderstorms !

S-face

"Weg durch das Saxophon": 8-, 6 hours, 5 pitches, very risky, very demanding, a big thing, R. Mittersteiner and Stefan Sader 1987
"Via Giorgio Viale": 6 and A2, 8 hours, most time an aide route, hard and seldome done, L. Boi and E. Menardi 1980
"Castiglioni/Detassis": 4+, 2-3 hours, a wonderful climb, most times on chimneys, often wet but excellent rock, often done, first ascent by E. Castiglioni and B. Detassis in 1935.
"Mayr/Vonmetz": 6+ and V+ (or V+ and A2), 6 hours, good rock but seldom done, very exposed, J. Mayr with W.Steinhauser and L. Vonmetz in 1971
"Dorigatti/Giambisi": 5+, 3-4 hours, an other very good climb with superb pitches on very good rock, A. Dorigatti and A. Giambisi in 1973

N-face / NW-face

"Dibona": 4-, 3-5 hours, at the upper part very good rock, the lower part is on brocken rock, very beautiful.
"Via dell'Orecchio": 5+ and A2, 6 hours, mostly cracks, first ascent by C. Zanantoni with partners in 1985
"Zanantoni/Avanzolini": 5, 6 hours, good and logical route, first ascent by C. Zanantoni and partners in 1971

Guidebook & Map

Anette Köhler, Norber Memmel; Dolomiten, Genussklettereien III-VI, Rother Selection, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, ISBN 3-7633-3001-1
Richard Goedeke, Sella & Langkofel extrem, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, ISBN 3-7633-1315-X

Map: Tabacco, Map 05 "Val Gardena & Alpe di Siusi"

What's new

2004-05-10: added Latitude/Longitude (Thanks to Gangolf Haub for this information)

Images



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