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Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü

 
Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Bolzano Alto Adige, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.52244°N / 11.83692°E

Object Title: Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü

County: Trentino Alto Adige

Activities: Trad Climbing, Via Ferrata

Elevation: 9528 ft / 2904 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Feb 17, 2016 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 965896

Hits: 987 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü 2904 m





In the Eastern sector of the extensive Sella massif, Boè Subgroup, we find a little known small group of three beautiful peaks that enclose to the North the Vallon basin: from left to right we see Sasso delle Nove 2904 m (Sass dals Nü in ladin), Sass dal Diesc 2916 m, the highest one, even if for a handful of meters, situated in the middle between the other two ones and Piz da Lec de Boe 2911 m, the Northernmost. These fascinating peaks overlook with their stunning East walls the Vallon basin, the adiacent Rifugio Kostner and Val di Mesdì on the opposite side. Sass dals Nü in ladin dialect or Sasso delle Nove in italian, is the Southernmost peak and it's connected to the South with the Boè plateau by a slightly marked saddle, while to the East (Vallon) and to the West (Val de Mesdì) shows two large stunning walls that fall vertically from the broad flat summit ridge. To the North-East the peak projects an overhanging and bold ridge to Forcella del Vallon separating Sass dals Nü from Sass dal Diesc.

Vallon summits annotated viewVallon summits annotated view


All the three peaks offer some very profitable climbing routes, especially on the East wall, whose approach is facilitated by the cable-car rising from Corvara in Badia, allowing to gain quickly altitude. The summit of Sass dals Nü is easily accessible along the standard route on the South ridge through which runs the Via Ferrata Vallon.

Sasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner close-up from Col de Stagn
Sasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner close-up from Col de Stagn
Summit of Sass dals Nü with Piz Boè in background
Summit of Sass dals Nü with Piz Boè in background

Getting There

The starting point to approach is the village of Corvara , located in the homonymous Val Badia.

Road access to Corvara in Badia

Road access to Corvara in Badia- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.

Approach to Sass dals Nü and Refuge Kostner

- from Corvara in Badia take the cable car "Boe" and the next chair lift to reach the Vallon Basin. Once at the upper station take the path n. 638, skirting at first Piz da Lec, then Sasso delle Dieci, getting the base of Sass dal Nu, which is separated from Sasso delle Dieeci by a narrow and deep rift.

"Grande Civetta" in the sundown light seen from Vallon


- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station; at a junction follow on the left the path n. 636 and when the path begins to descent you’re getting to Col de Stagn wall on your right hand. Leave the main path crossing the meadows and heading to the wall.

History

First summiters: the first known ascent was done by Alpine guide P. Pescosta with Joseph Alton and Adolf Gstirner on 1889, august 10th along the South crest - Probably the peak had been previously climbed by local hunters.

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Via Goedeke report

Sass dals Nü East Wall – Goedeke report (UIAA scale)

Summit altitude: m 2904
Difficulty: max V UIAA
Route length: 200 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Richard Goedeke - Suzanne Hornburg 1989, august 8th
Starting point: Refuge Kostner or Corvara in Badia

A very advisable climb with a climbing style mainly inside, as the nearby Castiglioni-Detassis, with which the route Goedeke shares the first pitch. The pegs in place are few, it's useful to integrate with fast protections. The summit is beautiful and wild with vaste views over Sella Group.

 
Via Goedeke topo, Sass dals Nü (Sella Group)
 


L1 Climb the chimney in common with the route Castiglioni-Detassis until you find on your left two old pegs. Continue up the black slab reaching a roof from which exit right and on easier ground reach the belay. III, IV+, V, 40 m. An intermediate stop on the two pegs is possible
L2 Climb the chimney for a few meters, then traverse on the left wall and exit the chimney. Traverse again and after a little grey wall and some steps reach the belay. IV, IV+, III, 30 m.
L3 Slanting left reach a gray wall, then enter the chimney and climb it entirely. Continue on the left for more carved rocks heading to the great black chimney. IV, III, 50 m.
L4 Head to the black chinmney on the left of the belay. Climb the chimney at first on the right wall then moving on the left. After a large hourglass move to the bottom of the chimney, still climb it and reach a wide where belay. IV, IV +, 50 m.
L5 Back in the chimney, climb behind a huge jammed boulder, beyond which on there’s the belay
III, IV, 25 m.
L6 Climb on the right of the chimney as far as another wedged boulder. Overcome it on the right, then bend to the left. On exposed but easier ground continue to climb up the chimney, exiting on the summit ridge. Belay to be equipped. III, IV
Scramble up the summit scree about 100 meters to reach the summit.

Descent: from the summit follow a track to the right (facing out towards the Vallon), getting to a waterfall. Here follow the Via Ferrata del Vallon reaching the Vallon. 40 minutes

Other routes

East Face

- Castiglioni - Detassis - Another fine classic route mainly running along chimneys
- Aerofobia
- Wunschland
- Nanitschka

Some Images from Sass dals Nü


Vallon campsite, Sella Group
Vallon campsite

Sass dals Nü seen from Cima Occidentale del Vallon, Sella Group
Sass dals Nü from Cima W del Vallon

Snowy saddle on Sass dals Nü, Sella Group
Snowy saddle on Sass dals Nü

Vallon approach in sunrise light
Vallon approach in the sunrise light



West Face

- Ey de Net
- Castglioni - Fasana

Hut and accomodation

Rifugio Franz Kostner m 2550

Situation: located on a large debris terrace at the mouth of Vallon, under the walls of Cima Vallon and Pala delle Guide Pala, Sella Group
Open: 1 of July - 30 of September
Size: 33 pers.
Owner: C.A.I. Bolzano
Guardian: Emanuel Agreiter
Hut's phone 0039-3338759838
Guardian's phone: 0039-0471/836757
Getting There: from Corvara in Badia by cable car + chair lift

Detail of Piz da Lec, Sella Group
Piz da Lec

Marmolada glacier seen from Vallon
Marmolada glacier seen from Vallon

Refuge Kostner and Sasso del Rifugio from Col de Stagn
Refuge Kostner and Sasso del Rifugio

When to climb

The best season to climb goes from June to September

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige

Meteo Trentino

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebook and maps

 
Guidebook  Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali
 
 
Sass dals Nü map
 


Guidebooks and maps

“Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali” Vol I by M. Bertolotti- L. Galbiati – F. Vascellari Collana Mountain Geographic

Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada

Tabacco ff. 06–07 1:25000

Images

Sasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner close-up from Col de StagnVallon panorama: Sasso del Rifugio, Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Piz da LecSnowy saddle on Sass dals Nü, Sella GroupDetail of Piz da Lec, Sella GroupVia Goedeke topo, Sass dals Nü (Sella Group)Vallon summits annotated view"Grande Civetta" in the sundown light seen from Vallon
Piz da LecSass dals Nü seen from Cima Occidentale del Vallon, Sella GroupGuidebook "Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali"Vallon campsite, Sella GroupSass dals Nü - Sasso delle Nove, Sella GroupDetail of Sass dals Nü/Sasso delle Nove from VallonMarmolada glacier seen from Vallon
[ View Gallery - 4 More Images ]