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Mt Arrowsmith - the Saddle/Bumps/Nose
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Mt Arrowsmith - the Saddle/Bumps/Nose

 
Mt Arrowsmith - the Saddle/Bumps/Nose

Page Type: Route

Location: Vancouver Island/BC, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 49.22362°N / 124.59446°W

Object Title: Mt Arrowsmith - the Saddle/Bumps/Nose

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: Class 4/Low 5

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: vancouver islander

Created/Edited: Apr 20, 2006 / Oct 8, 2016

Object ID: 189480

Hits: 13172 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Getting there

The  Nose The Nose

Refer to the parent Mt Arrowsmith page for approach directions as far as Pass Main logging road.

Route description

You are parked at what was spur P37 of Pass Main. In the past this very rough steep road could be driven a further 500m towards the mountain. No more I'm afraid. Walk east up the spur to the beginning of the flagged route up to the saddle between Cokely and Arrowsmith. There are two sets of flagging leading up. The rightmost one covers more open bluffy ground with views. That to the left is less steep but is mostly in the forest. The routes converge in a flat section before the last pull up to the saddle. From July on watch for the spectacular wildflower display in the open meadows just below the saddle. At the saddle turn left (SW) and up towards the massif proper. Traverse the “Bumps” with some Class 3 to arrive in about one hour (from the saddle) in a small col below the summit block – the “Nose”. Note that the “Bumps” are almost as high as the true summit.

An alternate route to the Nose, very popular in winter and spring, is to drop off the Cokely/Arrowsmith Saddle to the SE and traverse under the Bumps to any of the gullies that allow access to ridge above. The easiest and, consequently most popular of these, is the "Hourglass".

Once at the foot of the Nose climb the summit block in 2 pitches each of about 30 m. The first is 4th Class and slabby with little if anything in the way of protection. Many folk solo this. The second is (very) low 5th and, again, is often soloed. There are bolted belay/rap stations in place. From the top of the Nose walk left up to the true summit with its microwave tower and wooden helicopter landing platform.

Descend by reversing the above on rappel or by downclimbing. Or descend the Judges Route to Pass Main, walk 4.5 km back to your car from there or coordinate two vehicles in advance.

Depending on wind and snow conditions a snow arête often sets up on the Nose that may be climbed during a brief window in April/May - or until it melts out to the point when it becomes untenable. 

Preparing to climb the  Nose Climbers gearing up for the Nose
The HourglassThe Hourglass gully access to the Nose. Photo by edsco.
Snow NoseThe Nose with its short-lived snow arête. Photo by edsco.
Downclimbing the  Nose Downclimbing the Nose on snow.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons in early season. 50-60m Rope for anyone uncomfortable with exposure and/or for the descent. Small rack. A few nuts to be sure, but mainly large pieces (hexes and/or camming devices). 

Climbing the  Nose
Climbing the Nose

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Images

Downclimbing the "Nose"Snow NoseGetting to the Snow NoseClimbing the "Nose"Nose and Main Snow Gully from BumpsAscending the NoseThe Hourglass
Over the bumpsNick and Laura-Leigh on the BumpsOver the bumpsThe BumpsScrambling on the bumps