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Mt Stuart, West Ridge
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Mt Stuart, West Ridge

Mt Stuart, West Ridge

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Title: Mt Stuart, West Ridge

Date Climbed/Hiked: May 30, 2009

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring


Page By: ExcitableBoy

Created/Edited: May 31, 2009 / May 31, 2009

Object ID: 517399

Hits: 7244 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Mt Stuart via the central couloir to the West Ridge

My old partner Nick and I had a free day and wanted to get into the mountains. We kicked around some ideas and settled on the West Ridge of Mt Stuart approaching by the couloir that leads directly to the West Ridge notch.

Mt Stuart
Mt Stuart from Long's pass
With the soft snow of spring we knew we would be in for a long day so we started at 5 AM from the trail head. An hour of steady walking brought us to Long's pass and our first views of Mt Stuart.

Nick Strait in the couloir
Nick in the couloir
We dropped down Long's pass and into Ingall's Creek valley, found an easy log crossing over the river and made our way to the large couloir splitting the south face. We climbed the coulor bypassing several waterfalls, and in once case climbing directly through one. Good thing it was a warm day!

Getting back on route
Rappelling into the correct branch
At one point we realized we had taken the wrong branch and had to make a rappel to gain the correct branch of the couloir. The couloir was seemingly endless, but eventually did end right at the West Ridge notch, just where the climbing on the standard West Ridge route becomes interesting. I scrambled one pitch.  
EB on the north face
EB on the north face
Nick led an exposed pitch which ended on the North Face. I led the next pitch the rest of the way across the North Face and back onto the South Face, finding some expensive gear along the way. If you lost something let me know and I will get it back to you. The next few pitches went quickly and Nick led the final pitch to the summit.  
Crux pitch
Nick on the last pitch

EB on the summit
EB on the summit
It was 4 in the afternoon by the time we summitted and the snow had become very soft, making the initial downclimbing tedious. We eventually crossed into the Cascadian Couloir and made several long glissades. Some more downclimbing brought us to the Ingall's Creek valley where we quickly located our log crossing. The hike back up to Long's Pass was demoralizing, but less than an hour after getting back up to Long's Pass we were back at the car, a bit less than 17 hours after leaving it.

All in all a good, long day in the hills with a great friend and partner.


Mt Stuart


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Viewing: 1-5 of 5    

rpcnice tr


Voted 10/10

good balance of words & pictures :) nice climb too.
Posted Jun 1, 2009 12:40 pm

ExcitableBoyRe: nice tr


Hasn't voted

Posted Jun 1, 2009 3:32 pm

mvsGreat day


Voted 10/10

You pack a lot into a day! But ugh...the wet, exploding snow of spring and the associated post-holing ;-).
Posted Jun 3, 2009 1:44 am

WittWontQuitI'm lost, well not yet, but I will be


Hasn't voted

Does anyone know the route/trail from Stuart Lake to the West Ridge?
Posted Sep 23, 2011 10:04 pm

ExcitableBoyRe: I'm lost, well not yet, but I will be


Hasn't voted

Yes but much of it is off trail, requires river crossings on logs that you pretty much have to know where they are, avoid getting sucked into the dreaded bouder field, exit the valley at the correct (hard to find) location, bush whack a bit, walk up the moraine under the Stuart Glacier, up to goat pass, cross a talus field to Stuart Pass, walk under the South Face and find the correct gulley (out of a couple possible ones) and then do the 'challengeing' portion of the route finding. Then you have to descend the icy, broken up Sherpa glacier back to the Stuart Creek valley.

Much easier is to approach via Ingalls lake and descend via Cascadian Couloir. Happy to give any other advice. PM me here or email @ softwareninja@live.com.

Posted Sep 25, 2011 12:10 am

Viewing: 1-5 of 5