Drive to Stanley Lake trailhead and take Stanley creek trail toward Bridalveil Falls. Turn left (east) at intersection of Alpine Way trail. Hike along Alpine Way trail for ~1/2-3/4 mile until directly below North face of peak 9115, which is a subpeak of McGown Peak. Head south cross country directly to base of obvious couloir dividing peak 9115.
Early season approach may be lengthened by 3 miles if gate to Stanley lake access road is locked (this is a winter snowmobile trail and a very fast, flat ski/snowshoe to lake along packed trail.
***BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS CLIMB, BE SURE SNOW CONDITIONS ARE VERY STABLE AS THIS ROUTE IS EXTREMELY PRONE TO AVALANCHES***
Access couloir and climb directly up couloir to summit. The crux is a short (30 ft) near vertical ice section at the entrance to the couloir.
This route is a sustained 45-50 degree snow climb for approximately 2000 vertical feet with a very short approach.
Continue across the snowfields and on up the main couloir of McGown peak for a longer day, or descend broad valley and drainage directly below snow fields of main peak. Return to Alpine Way trail and back to Stanley Lake.
Climbing season is March-June or until snow melts out of couloir.
Rope, Helmet, crampons, 2 ice axes, 2-3 snow pickets, 4-6 carabiners, 4-6 various length slings/cordelette.
You may also set good belay stations on the cliff faces of the couloir. If you choose this, then also bring a small alpine rack (set of small-medium sized nuts, 3-4 smaller tricams, 3-4 cams 0.25"-2")
If you want to pack backcountry skies, the bowl and descent through the snowfields below the main peak offer INCREDIBLE turns. The couloir itself has also been skied top to bottom.