N Face peak 9115

Approach

Drive to Stanley Lake trailhead and take Stanley creek trail toward Bridalveil Falls. Turn left (east) at intersection of Alpine Way trail. Hike along Alpine Way trail for ~1/2-3/4 mile until directly below North face of peak 9115, which is a subpeak of McGown Peak. Head south cross country directly to base of obvious couloir dividing peak 9115.

Early season approach may be lengthened by 3 miles if gate to Stanley lake access road is locked (this is a winter snowmobile trail and a very fast, flat ski/snowshoe to lake along packed trail.

Route Description

***BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS CLIMB, BE SURE SNOW CONDITIONS ARE VERY STABLE AS THIS ROUTE IS EXTREMELY PRONE TO AVALANCHES***

Access couloir and climb directly up couloir to summit. The crux is a short (30 ft) near vertical ice section at the entrance to the couloir.

This route is a sustained 45-50 degree snow climb for approximately 2000 vertical feet with a very short approach.

Continue across the snowfields and on up the main couloir of McGown peak for a longer day, or descend broad valley and drainage directly below snow fields of main peak. Return to Alpine Way trail and back to Stanley Lake.

Climbing season is March-June or until snow melts out of couloir.

Essential Gear

Rope, Helmet, crampons, 2 ice axes, 2-3 snow pickets, 4-6 carabiners, 4-6 various length slings/cordelette.

You may also set good belay stations on the cliff faces of the couloir. If you choose this, then also bring a small alpine rack (set of small-medium sized nuts, 3-4 smaller tricams, 3-4 cams 0.25"-2")

Ski descent

If you want to pack backcountry skies, the bowl and descent through the snowfields below the main peak offer INCREDIBLE turns. The couloir itself has also been skied top to bottom.

Images

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