N Face Snow climb

Approach

Drive to Stanley Lake trailhead and take Stanley creek trail toward Bridalveil Falls. Turn left (east) at intersection of Alpine Way trail. Hike along Alpine Way trail for 1 mile until directly below North face of peak. Head south toward peak cross country throughtrees and access ridge on East side of main creek drainage of N side of peak. Scramble up steep slope to boulder field below North face, then continue directly to the obvious couloir dividing mountain.

Route Description

This route is an excellent introduction to alpine mountaineering. The couloir gradually steepens as you climb higher, but never gets much steeper than about 45 degrees. The steepest section is approximately 4 pitches in length.
Once on top of couloir, scramble south about 300 meters to ridge, then traverse East, and back to the North and complete a gradual spiral around summit block to summit.

Descend through snow/scree slope on east face for approximately 1500 feet, then hike north and continue descending back toward boulder field and Alpine way trail, then back to Stanley Lake.

Essential Gear

Rope, Helmet,crampons, ice axe (only 1 needed, second may be helpful for beginners), 2-3 snow pickets, 3-4 carabiners, Various slings/cordelette.

All required anchors will be in snow.

Miscellaneous Info

Climbing season is March-November, with June-early August being the peak season (depending on snow conditions).

This route is best after the snowfield has consolidated, but early season climbs may be enhanced with backcountry skiing/snowboarding.

Avalanches may pose a hazard until snow has consolidated.

Images

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