NE Face Ledges

Overview

This route ascends easy, ramping ledges that split the intimidating NE face. It can probably go as easy as class 2/3 with no snow but would probably be more interesting when snow covered in the early season.

Getting There

Start as for Tower Arete.

Route Description

Start as for Tower Arete either climbing the first pitch or two of Tower Arete (Class 4), or hike up the gully (snow in early season, scree in late season) and traverse to the start of the ledge system. I hiked up the snow-free scree gully (late July 2020) and scrambled up to the ledge to start. Walk east across and up the ledge system to where it crosses a hanging couloir in the middle of the face. This narrow section is much easier to cross than it looks from the base. Continue up the wide couloir along the ledge system to the base of a north-facing obvious couloir and arete. The snow is not too steep and looks fun, but I did not feel the desire to whip out my ice axe and crampons for the last 100' so I stuck to the arete to the left of the snow. The rock could probably go at class 2 if you wanted to stay farther from the arete, but I was interested in something to make the route more interesting so I climbed up the arete at an easy class 4. The rock was solid and the scrambling was fun. From the top of the arete, walk the short distance to the summit.

Descend whichever route you like.

Essential Gear

Helmet & Boots/Approach Shoes. If snow covered, ice axe, crampons, & if roping up, snow/rock protection. During the summer