Needle Rock

Overview

Needle Rock is a rock tower located on the boundary of  Telluride Ski Resort. It is usually climbed in the summer, but could be climbed in the winter and approached on skis. The rock quality is poor, but the summit offers excellent views. The summit has US flag on it, and is noticeable from many runs facing the Telluride town (not the mountain village). The easiest approach is via gondola, which is free in Telluride. 

Rock Type: Conglomerate/ San Juan Tuff, poor quality. 

Height: 80 feet

Class: 5.9+

Quad: Telluride

Parent Lineage: Silver Mountain

Mountain Project provides a pretty nice description, so Telluride Rocks book by Damon Johnson and Charlie Fowler. 

Getting There

From Telluride take the free Gondola to Saint Sophia Station and from here hike following ski runs and dirt roads. Only the last section is bushwhacking through the forest. You can see Needle Rock on your approach. Give it about 50 to 60 min for approach. 

Initially you follow Telluride Trail ski run = dirt road slightly down hill, at the first switchback continue uphills towards the Plunge ski run. Traverse across Plunge and Bushwhacker and enter the forest down to a gully and then back up to a ridge that marks the boundary of ski area. Needle Rock sits on the ridge. You will be able to see Needle Rock on your approach, only the last section in the forest offers no views. 

Route

The rote is located on the west side. It is easy to identify. Big crack system over a bulge, there is also an old hanger at the start of the route. It is only one pitch, about 25 meters long. There is only one fixed hanger at the start, the rest of the route is traditional. There are new anchors at the summit. The route is rated as 5.9+ and fees hard, mostly due to the poor quality of the rock. Luckily, it is well protectable below and over the bulge. Higher up the climbing becomes easier, but the rock quality is poorer. 

Gear: 60 meter rope, rack with bigger gear: we placed 1 #5 camalot, 2 # 4 camalots, 1 # 3 camalot, 2 # 2 camalots and 1 #1 camalot and 1 # 0.75 camalot. Sounds like a lot of gear for a short route, but the rock quality is scary, expect to breathe some of the dust while climbing (I think I even swallowed a pebble). 

Red Tape

Parking is free in Mountain Village, but you have to take 2 different gondolas. One takes you from parking garage to Mountain village and 2nd gondola takes you up Saint Sophia Station. Gondolas are free in Telluride. 

Hiking across the ski area is free, so is climbing. 

When to Climb

The route faces west and any season is good. Winter and spring may offer an approach on skis, but there may be snow in the crack and the climb would be cold. Summer and early autumn are the best. 

Camping

Camping is complex by Telluride. It is a big tourist destination and the area surrounding Needle Rock is part of the Ski Area. The best option is to look for developed campgrounds, e.g. Sunshine Campground.

External Links

• Needle Rock on Mountain Project 
• Needle Rock on List of John

Images

View Needle Rock Image Gallery - 7 Images