ForewordThe page was completely erased, no information preserved, so I am starting all over with some new and hopefully useful information. I have not climbed Pigeon Peak yet, but I am planning to spend a lot of weekends in the Needle Mountains this summer, and climb this beautiful peak.
OverviewPigeon Peak is one of the most prominent mountains in the Needles area. It can be seen from the train as it proceeds along the Animas River from Durango.
Pigeon has a rich climbing history, starting with 1908 first ascent by Cooper and Hubbard, and continuing to this day with assaults on the great east face.
Needle MountainsThe Needle Mountains are a vast climber's paradise. The fact that they are wild and rugged, with few roads and trails, has tended to make them a preserve for mountaineering. Only the Chicago Basin area saw any of the mining activity that swarmed over the rest of the San Juan in the last century. Except for ascents in Chicago Basin, and of Pigeon Peak, many of the first ascents of major peaks were not accomplished until Colorado Mountain Club and San Juan Mountaineer expeditions of the 1920s and 1930s. each decade since has seen new routes and climbs established, especially technical ones. There are still new routes to be explored on remote pinnacles and cold, dark north and east faces. In fact, there is a lifetime of climbing possibilities here.
The Needles proper, as part of the large Weminuche Wilderness, lie between the Animas River to the west and Vallecito Creek to the east. In a general sense, the term Needle Mountains also encompasses the West Needle Mountains, west of the Animas River, and the Mount Oso group, to the east of Vallecito Creek.
|[img:643119:aligncenter:medium:Upper Ruby Tarn]||[img:643125:aligncenter:medium:]|
|Mount Eolus||14,083 feet||Needle Creek Access||fourteener|
|North Eolus||14,039 feet||Needle Creek Access||not recognized as a separate fourteener; it is a short scramble from the low point between Eolus and North Eolus|
|Glacier Point||13,704 feet||Needle Creek Access||route goes up its easy southeast ridge from lakes|
|Twin Thumbs||13,420 feet||Needle Creek Access||the north Thumb is harder, rope is needed for short sections|
|Peak Eleven||13,540 feet||Needle Creek Access||climb from the col between Twin Thumbs and Peak Eleven|
|Sunlight Peak||14,059 feet||Needle Creek Access||fourteener|
|Sunlight Spire||13,995 feet||Needle Creek Access||technical route rated 5.10 or easier if aided|
|Windom Peak||14,082 feet||Needle Creek Access||fourteener|
|Jupiter Mountain||13,830 feet||Needle Creek Access||several non-technical routes, or a very difficult Windom-Juniper ridge|
|Aztec Mountain||13,310 feet||Needle Creek Access||can be climbed from Columbine Pass|
|Heisspitz||13,262 feet||Noname Creek Access||4th class scramble in a gully|
|Peak Four||13,410 feet||Noname Creek Access||again 4th class scramble in a prominent gully|
|Peak Five and Peak Six||13,283 ft and 13,705 ft||Noname Creek Access||both go from the 12,900 foot pass between them|
|Jagged Mountain||13,824 feet||Noname Creek Access||is one of the more difficult and certainly one of the most rewarding climbs in the Needles|
|Gray Needle and Noname Needle||13,430 ft and 13,620 ft||Noname Creek Access||interesting technical climbs|
|Levithian Peak||13,528 feet||Noname Creek Access||climbed by its southwest ridge, 3rd class scramble|
|Vallecito Mountain||13,428 feet||Noname Creek Access||3rd class scramble|
|Knife Point and Peak Ten||13,265 ft and 13,400 ft||Noname Creek Access||are climbed from the col between them|
|Peak Twelve||13,120 feet||Noname Creek Access||the route not very technical from pass south of the great wall of Monitor Peak|
|Monitor Peak||13,695 feet||both Noname Creek and Ruby Creek Access||high east face has some of the longest rock climbs in San Juans|
|The Index||13,400 feet||Ruby Creek Access||technical peak, route rated 5.7|
|Animas Mountain||13,786 feet||Ruby Creek Access||both technical and nontechnical routes|
|Peak Thirteen||13,705 feet||Ruby Creek Access||both technical and scramble routes|
|Little Finger, Peak Sixteen, and Peak Fifteen||13,200, 13,500, and 13,700 ft||Ruby Creek Access||all these peaks are technical and hard to get to/tr>|
|Pigeon Peak||13,972 feet||Ruby Creek Access||semi-technical route, rope may be needed|
|Turret Peak||13,835 feet||Ruby Creek Access||hike up the talus from Pigeon-Turret saddle|
|Hope Mountain||13,012 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||can be approached on an old road that crosses north of it going east to Hazel Lake|
|Grizzly Peak/td>||13,700 feetVallecito Creek Access||there are several Grizzly Peaks in Colorado, climb obvious ramp from Jupiter-Grizzly saddle|
|13,554 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||usually done via ridge from Grizzly to McCauley|
|Echo Mountain||13,309 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||steep southwest slopes to the ridge west of the summit|
|Thunder Mountain||13,108 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||has a 0.5 mile long, sheer cliff face that stops any attempts from the basin, better to climb from by its southeast ridge|
|Greylock Mountain||13,575 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||is the only walk up in Grizzly Gulch Basin|
|Florida Mountain||13,076 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||can be climbed most of the way by an old road that traverses south out of Vallecito Basin to Trimble Pass 12,840|
|Bullion Mountain and Mount Valois||13,182 ft and 13,185 ft||Vallecito Creek Access||0.5 miles west of Trimble Pass, and Valois 0.5 miles southeast, are easy walk ups.|
|Emerson Mountain, Sheep Mountain, Amherst Mountain, Organ Mountain||all thirteeners||Vallecito Creek Access||to visit these thirteeners follow the trail south from Trimble Pass three miles to Florida River (good camping)|
|Peak Seven||13,682 feet||Vallecito Creek Access||is the northernmost peak of Needles Proper, it is climbed by angling over to its easy north ridge|
What a list of peaks! What a project to climb them all!