Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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V+ |
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Number of Pitches:
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4 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
This line climbs the north ridge of the Heiliggeistwachter Tower (Holy Ghost Guard I believe). Though a great looking line from the road, there is a bit of loose rock and a touch of moss. Still, I found this to be a more interesting experience than Sudwestkante.
Getting There
P4When driving north on the main drag through Kastraki (away from Kalambaka), find a right turn off (fork) heading into the older town section. Go through a traffic circle and proceed down the street towards the southwest edge of Heiliger Geist formation (the big, elongated fin of rock). Instead of parking in the small dirt pullout on the right as you would for theSudwestkante route on the same formation, continue straight down the road past where the pavement ends. In a couple hundred yards (just past the edge of the Heiliggeistwachter), park next to a small building on your right. The trail starts behind this structure. At the first faint junction take a right. Approach time is about 10 minutes.
Route Description
P1
P3Pitch 1: IV+, 120 feet. Near the low toe of the buttress, look for a shiny ring bolt ~30 feet up. Climb straight up the knobby slab (bolts) to a single ring bolt belay. Tad mossy but easy.
Pitch 2: IV, 100+ feet. Continue up the bolted slab heading for the base of the obvious chimney. Rock gets a bit chunky near the top. Belay at base of chimney from another ring bolt.
Pitch 3: V+, 100+ feet. Move up the chimney (couple bushes, couple bolts, and couple questionable gear placements). When chimney ends, move onto left side face and climb to the ring bolt belay below the large roof.
Pitch 4: V, 80 feet. Move slightly left and then up bypassing the roof on its left side. Easy chimney/groove (2 bolts) put you on the bushy ledge just below summit (class I to summit, 20 feet). Belay from trees.
Descent:
Either hike up and tag the summit (just above you) or hike into the bushes on this ledge system (~SW) to the horizontal chimney (not exposed). Rappels begin on the other side of the chimney.
There’s a single ring bolt on a horizontal slab of rock on the left as you exit the chimney. There’s also an anchor (exposed) on the right wall. You can rap here directly to the ground (notch between this formation and Heiliger Geist) in one double 60 meter rap. However, take care if you use the ring bolt on the left that you move the knot down below the lip or you will be quite entertained when pulling your ropes. There is an intermediate ring bolt that might allow shorter raps (not sure of the length). Using the anchor on the right wall is likely a better option.