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4147 Hits
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74.92% Score
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5 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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V+/VI- |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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Grade:
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V |
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Overview
The Heiliggeistwächter is a pillar 100 meters high, immediately located near the North-West face of the imposing Heiliger Geist and this situation explains the name given to the spire, which means "Holy Ghost Guardian". Sudwestkante is an easy 6-pitches route running on the South-west ridge of Heiliggeistwächter.
The route is perfect for beginners and it is a really good introduction to Meteora's multi-pitch climbing style. The route is straight and obvious; really easy (but boltless) climbing on the first three pitches. The last three pitches are a bit more interesting and better protected.
Getting There
The approach is short (15 min.) but it might be a bit tricky; from Kastraki, head toward Agios monastry, park the car in front of it and turn right on an unpaved downhill road (20 meter further on). In the proximity of a small building, turn left on a small path under big trees and reach the north ridge of the Heiliggeistwatcher. Round the pillar clockwise (i.e., the side of the pillar that looks at Doupiani).
Route Description
Pitch 1 (40m, II): really easy climbing but no bolts. The belay is on one big ring (the rest of the belays are always on two big rings).
Pitch 2 (40m, III): easy climbing, one bolt.
Pitch 3 (20m, III): easy climbing, no bolts.
Pitch 4 (20m, V+): easy climbing, three bolts.
Pitch 5 (20m, V/VI-): follow the bolt on the right and climb the crux (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, well protected). Four bolts total. (there is a line on the left side of the pitch that skips the crux; no personal experience of it).
Pitch 6 (40m, IV): easy climb, four bolts.
Descent: on the side of the pillar that looks at the Heiliggeist, walk trough a small canyon and make a short rappel (10 meters) following a small water couloir. One long rappel of approx 50 m following the same water couloir (it is possible to split the abseil in two parts; a bolted route follows the couloir).
Essential Gear
Two 60m ropes (probably 50m is enough) and a set of quickdraws. No trad gear is required.
External Links
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