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Normal route

Normal route

Normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.03960°N / 11.14290°E

Object Title: Normal route

Route Type: basic glacier climb/easy scrambling

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: easy

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Luidger

Created/Edited: Dec 24, 2001 / Dec 24, 2001

Object ID: 156030

Hits: 1893 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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From Oberissalm (1742 m) on the marked path to the big Franz-Senn-Hütte (2147 m)

Route Description

1. To the glacier (~ 2 h), marked path, paint and cairns
First flat in western direction, then turning south and climbimg the western moraine of the Alpeiner Ferner (glacier)

2. Glacier
At approx. 2750 m, one has to step on the glacier. On first steeper part is most conveniently climbed at the western edge of the glacier (beware crevasses).
The upper glacier plateau is pretty flat. One continues in southern direction before turning east directly towards tht summit of Ruderhofspitze. But before reaching the rocks, one turns right (southern direction) to reach the Obere Höllscharte (3247 m) where the southwest ridge can be climbed most easily (possibly bergschrund).

3. Soutthwest ridge
At the pass, you can leave the glacier stuff. From now on, it is just an easy walk over to not very exposed ridge to the summit (scrambling grade I).

It takes about 4-6 hrs. from Franz-Senn-Hütte to the summit.
Descent on the same route.

The is another possibility to get to the ridge. You continue in the upper snow bay in eastern direction until you get to the rocks. You will see a couloir which is secured with fixed ropes. Because of the bergschrund it is in summer sometimes difficult to get to the couloir. Then you climb up the couloir and continue as above.

Essential Gear

Normal gear for glacier travel and crevasse rescue: ice axe, crampons, harness, rope

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


On the Alpeiner Ferner...