OverviewThis is a classic snow climb on the north face of Anderson Peak, offering 1200 feet of continuously steep snow, up to 60 degrees. The route is in condition* starting mid-late June (we found ideal conditions 06/27/14).
ApproachAs for Anderson Lake. The North Couloir** is the longest and most direct line on the north face and can be seen from the lake.
Route DescriptionClimb the apron, which steepens immediately to 45+ degrees. Above the apron, enter the choke and hug the left wall on 60+ degree snow. Continue climbing 45-55 degree snow. There is a spur on the left which goes even more directly to the summit and contains some ice that looks WI3+. Check it out if you're a hardman (or have gear), otherwise continue straight up. Approaching the ridge, the angle again reaches 60+ degrees, and passing the cornice may require a hard move. Gain the ridge and go east to the summit.
Essential GearMountaineering axe, sturdy boots, crampons. A second tool is recommended.
Notes* hard packed snow when climbed around sunrise.
** this couloir needs a name! If you know it, please let me know!