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North Couloir
Route

North Couloir

 
North Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.01523°N / 106.63071°W

Object Title: North Couloir

Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Skiing

Season: Spring

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Very Steep Snow

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: metal4lyf

Created/Edited: Aug 1, 2014 / Aug 3, 2014

Object ID: 907195

Hits: 111 

Page Score: 71.64%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

This is a classic snow climb on the north face of Anderson Peak, offering 1200 feet of continuously steep snow, up to 60 degrees. The route is in condition* starting mid-late June (we found ideal conditions 06/27/14).

Anderson Peak north face
Anderson Peak north face

Approach

As for Anderson Lake. The North Couloir** is the longest and most direct line on the north face and can be seen from the lake.

Route Description

Climb the apron, which steepens immediately to 45+ degrees. Above the apron, enter the choke and hug the left wall on 60+ degree snow. Continue climbing 45-55 degree snow. There is a spur on the left which goes even more directly to the summit and contains some ice that looks WI3+. Check it out if you're a hardman (or have gear), otherwise continue straight up. Approaching the ridge, the angle again reaches 60+ degrees, and passing the cornice may require a hard move. Gain the ridge and go east to the summit.

Anderson Peak North Couloir route
red = North Couloir
yellow = North Couloir Direct

Essential Gear

Mountaineering axe, sturdy boots, crampons. A second tool is recommended.

Notes

* hard packed snow when climbed around sunrise.

** this couloir needs a name! If you know it, please let me know!

Images

Anderson Peak North Couloir