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North Face via Collier Cone south rim
Route

North Face via Collier Cone south rim

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.18000°N / 121.78°W

Object Title: North Face via Collier Cone south rim

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 3

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Cornvallis

Created/Edited: Oct 6, 2003 / May 18, 2004

Object ID: 159002

Hits: 1755 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach


From the Obsidian Trail (3528) continue east to the Glacier Creek Trail (4336), and then north onto the PCT. It is just a little over 6 miles from the TH to the base of Collier Cone. From here follow the Collier Glacier view trail up to the small saddle on the south rim of Collier Cone.

To join up with the Scott Trail (3531) take a quick left about 50 yards up the Obsidian Trail and follow that trail for about a half mile and then a right onto the Scott Trail (3531). Follow this trail east past Four-In-One Cone and take a right onto PCT and follow it south until you reach the base of Collier Cone. From here follow the Collier Glavier view trail up to the small saddle on the south rim of Collier Cone. This route is about 7 miles to the base.

Route Description


From the Collier Glacier viewpoint you can clearly see your route, the red cinder north face of Little Brother. Head down the backside of the rim and cross the small gorge at the bottom along a very faint use trail. Do not expect to find much of any trail after this. From hear angle southwest across the undulating landscape until you reach the bottom of the red cinder north face. Once you reach the steep north face switch back your way up. Stay just to the right of the small snowfield/glacier halfway up. Above the snowfield the rock becomes very loose and crumbly so watch your step, although a fall would not be fatal just painful. Be careful when climbing with others as higher climbers will cause a lot of rock fall that could be very dangerous. Scramble up onto the pinnacle above the snowfield, and the summit ridge comes into view. A quick easy scramble along this ridge takes you to the true summit. Enjoy the amazing views!

For the descent, it is easier to come down a little more to the west to take advantage of the loose cinder.

Essential Gear


Nothing essential, but gaiters are highly recommended. A helmet might not be a bad idea if your climbing in a group, but not essential. If climbing in early season with snow still on the mountain, and ice ax and crampons would be necessary.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.