North Ridge Direct : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Please note, this route was chosen by our team in early April as a better alternative to the other North Ridge route proposed by nader. We felt this direct route was probably easier, less destructive, and more beautiful. Again, it might not be better when conditions are different than what we had in early April.

Getting There

Same as main page: Take I-70 to Exit 195 and follow Route 91 south to Freemont Pass (11318 ft). South of the pass, the road begins to descend. At the first switchback south of the pass, you will see two parallel roads. The first road is paved and goes to some facilities belonging to Climax Mine. The second road is a well-graded dirt road. Park at the south end of the switchback where the winter trail starts.

Route Description

From route 91 go south across the railroad track and follow the left edge of the densely timbered zone. This will eventually point you south and directly uphill. Keep going uphill. Once the last of the trees have been left behind, look south. This is the start of the north ridge. To the right of a vertical chunk of rock there is an excess of less-steep rock and if you are lucky, a firm snow band. Go uphill, this area of the ridge broadens and is filled with a mixture of small boulders and baby-heads. Eventually gets less steep and sharper and leads to the false summit with minor class 3 scrambling. Continue to follow the ridge proper to main summit. There are some interesting points along the way, but I won't ruin the surprise. Class 4 obsticles can be avoided by short descents to the West.In winter and spring snowshoes or skis will probably be needed to treeline.

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