Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.33250°N / 121.8372°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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I-5.1 |
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Approach
Follow the North Ridge climbers trail from the PCT (The left fork) through the forest until you reach the ridge. Once reaching the ridge try to stay on top of the ridge as long as possible. Skirt several towers to the west (your right) until you reach the north wall of the summit pinnacle.
Route Description
Move up a short loose gully to a notch facing the North East side of the mountain. Move up a fractured ramp some 30 feet to tthe east into a rotten chimney. ** Note on first pitch. Unless you are up for it, don't get suckered into the first left leaning ramp, as it leads to some serious exposure around a bulge.
The 2nd ramp, immediately above and slightly East of the 1st and most obvious gully, is much less exposed and easy to climb. Climb up and left through the chimney until you reach a large block. This block usually has rappel slings still attached for the descent. Scramble up 250' until you reach another short chimney . Once moving up through this chimney scramble another 100 feet to reach the summit.
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Essential Gear
The only pitch that needs protecting is the first pitch up the rotten chimney. This is relatively easy 5th class climbing but there is significant exposure. It is somewhat difficult to traditionally protect. Bring webbing to sling horns and a couple of large hexes. There is a need for a rope and harnesses as well as additional webbing for the rappel/descent. The webbing at the block may be good but bring along extra just in case as well as a couple of rappel rings. Make sure to bring a helmet.
Miscellaneous Info
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