North Ridge

Approach

The best way to get to the base of this mountain is from Matterhorn Creek Trailhead. Hike up the trail to the pass between Broken Hill and Matterhorn Peak.

Route Description

From the pass it's about 2 miles to the summit. This ridge is very long but not too strenuous. There are a couple of 13,000-foot high points on the ridge that’s best to skirt around it on the East Side. Once you get on the saddle heading up to the summit block head west across the peak to the western ridge. The climb straight up is loose and dangerous. Rock fall is too much of a hazard. The East Ridge makes for a steep but easy ascent on the tundra. Just before getting to the summit block head below the summit block cliffs and just above some other cliffs. Once you have passed the cliff face head straight up to the summit. I used the cliff next to me to hold on to help me get better balance. This class 2+ climb is steep and loose. If you are with a couple of people I would recommend one person at a time heading up. This is only about a 60-foot vertical ascent. Heading down its best to 5 point it.

Essential Gear

No essential Gear is required, just use your route finding capabilities. The summit block could be climbed by rope for a more dramatic finish. The rock does not look very stable though.

Miscellaneous Info

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