ApproachFollow the trail from Kennedy Meadows past Relief Reservoir, on past the small (and barely recognizable) Saucer Meadow to Lunch Meadow, an open sagebrush-covered expanse.
Route DescriptionPete Yamagata's Northern Sierra Peaks Guide contains a detailed description of a class 2 route up the north ridge of the peak. This might be the most direct route up the peak, at least from the Lunch Meadow area--if you can identify the ridge to which he refers.
One can also follow a broad hanging valley up from the vicinity of Sheep Camp in Lunch Meadow, heading first SW and then angling south to pass high above Lewis Lakes on their east side, before climbing the peak by its NW slope (an easy walk-up that may be anticlimatic after the climbing/route-finding to reach this point). This route roughly follows a small stream, and features some moderate bushwhacking in the lower portions before coming to a succession of granite slabs and cliffs. If the terrain looks like a confusing jumble of slabs, boulders, and cliffs, that's because it is. The route-finding to keep this to class 3 or less may be easier in climbing the route; as a descent route, the way is not so obvious.
As you might guess, I didn't take careful notes when I descended this route. If you head this way, please be sure to post any additions/corrections here!
The north slopes are straightforward in early spring, when they make for an easy snow climb.