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Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes
Route

Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes

 
Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.01668°N / 116.16072°W

Object Title: Northeast Face of Chimney Rock, select routes

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.8, 10a,11a

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Dec 17, 2011 / Dec 17, 2011

Object ID: 766112

Hits: 825 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview

 
Select routes of the northeast face
 
 
Joshua Trees at sunset
 

Chimney Rock is the southern most member of the group of formations that surround Hidden Valley Campground in Joshua Tree National Park's, California. Depending on how you approach this rock, you will have to pass through or go near a campsite. It is a good idea to be courteous to and considerate toward the campers, if they are present. It is also possible to avoid going near any campsites entirely if you are approaching the routes of the northeast face. Follow the path that heads toward The Wall then circle back toward the northeast face of Chimney Rock. This face gets a little sun early in the morning, then it stays in the shade for the rest of the day.


The Northeast face of Chimney Rock is pretty much hidden from the view if you are walking around Hidden Valley Campground. It is mostly the west face of this formation that gets the lion's share of attention. The northeast face, however, may be considered as a good hiding place right in the middle of a crowded neighborhood. This eighty foot face offers a variety of routes from 5.8 to 12c. The route that stands out the most is called "Blind Ambition," rated 11a. Unfortunately, Blind Ambition's difficulty puts it out of the reach of most climbers. For climbers with more moderate ambitions, there are "The Flue, 5.8" and "Raven's Reach, 10a" to keep them busy for a few hours. These three select routes end on a slopping ledge with a two-bolt anchor. This anchor provides the best and the safest descent from the top.

Essential Equipment: One sixty meter rope, standard rack, slings.
Descend Rappel from a two-bolt anchor on top.
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select routes of Northeast face of Chimney Rock
AThe Flue, 5.8, standard Rack
BBlind Ambition, 11a, bolts and standard Rack
CRaven's Reach, 10a, Standard Rack



Left side
 
Northeast face of Chimney Rock
 
Right Side
 


Getting There

 
Chimney Rock
 




From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park drive on Park Boulevard, formerly known as Quail Springs Road, for about nine miles to a major rock formation called “Intersection Rock.” Intersection Rock is a major landmark on the north side of Park Boulevard with ample parking for visitors and climbers alike. This rock, true to its name, sit at the cross roads to Hidden Valley Campground, Barker Dam Road and the road to Day use and picnic area. Chimney Rock is located across the parking lot from Intersection Rock, and may be identified by its very large chimney or a very promominent hole on it west face. Park here and walk into the campground. Find the loop trail that heads toward a long formation known as The Wall, then circle back toward the east face of Chimney Rock.

Route Description


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Essential Gear


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External Links


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Images

Joshua Trees at sunsetSelect routes of the northeast faceNortheast face of Chimney RockLeft sideRight facing corner of Raven\'s ReachRight SideFlue, 5.8