Deb - Aug 23, 2021 10:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2021
16 Years Later
Climbed this route years ago with asshole, had much more fun this time with Kevin. Good scramble up and down with only "short arms and legs" issues for me downclimbing. Passed up a guided team who offered the use of the rope for us to get down; nope. New shoes and good skills got us out of there for a wonderful day of laughs and scrapes.
norco17 - Aug 25, 2019 10:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2019
Simul-climbed should have soloed
Much easier than we were expecting. Did with Joe in 3 pitches. We actually soloed the crux before putting on our rock shoes or roping up.
Jealous of all the fast car to car folks. Talus hopping approach with camping gear wasn't too fun, but even with staying at Dade it still took us pretty much the entire next day to climb and hike out.
Car to car in 12 hours via Gem Lakes on a beautiful day. Solo'd with a 30m rope in the pack but ended up not using it...
haishan - Mar 13, 2013 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2012
solo
A fun solo... the difficult section was shorter, but a little stouter, than I expected. Downclimbed the route.
oliverkalt - Sep 26, 2012 12:57 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2012
Nice climb on a beautiful summit
Nice. Less climbing than I expected.
dkangas - Aug 28, 2012 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
2nd Time
Approach Beta to minimize talus: go right around the Gem lakes (counterclockwise) along a small use trail all the way till you come up toward the cliffs on the west side. From there, look up right for a low point between the cliff and the high bluffs above the lake. There is a small amount of bushwacking but you can easily gain the low point by means of a light use trail. From that low point, contour left around the hill, with Treasure lakes on your right, in the direction of Dade Lake. Bear Creek Spire will come into view and guide you there.
WayneFry - Aug 27, 2012 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
NE Ridge
Car to car from Mosquito flat with a group of seven from SMG. Stayed in one of the walk in sites the night before. About a 13 hour day. Just an all around fun climb. Near the top of the ridge we climbed through a small window and made our way around the backside of the peak to reach the summit. Great summit block!
Daria - Nov 4, 2011 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2010
winter ascent
brrr...dropped to zero at night. Cold, but fun climb!
cliffm - Oct 28, 2011 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
amazing day
Solo car to car, beautiful day and awesome experience. Highlight of a longer trip.
Due to the 5.5 rating we brought a rope and some pro, but no one felt like they needed it so we soloed the entire route. The summit block was an easy up and down. Rapped off the summit and went back by Ulrich's route. Took about 11 hours car to car.
Climbed in one day from Mosquito Flat with SMG. Planned to use a running belay but ended up soloing the route because it was so much fun and the holds were plentiful. Great rock, scenic route. Getting to the summit from the end of the ridge was the hardest part, took a little recon to figure out the best way there. A snowstorm descended upon us at 11:00am while on our way down and made things a little exciting. North Arete looks amazing!
platypii - Feb 9, 2011 9:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009
BCS
Great climb! Amazing summit block! Beautiful area! Climbed in hiking boots and no rope. Route finding wasn't as bad as everyone says. Probably my favorite 4th class route so far!
JHH60 - Aug 27, 2010 9:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007
Spicy
The summit traverse was nice and exposed...
PellucidWombat - Aug 23, 2010 6:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010
Nice Simul-Climb
High winds left me and Gordon Ye uncertain about climbing the route, but luckily the winds had eased off by the time we started the route. A great climb, and next time I'll be back for the North Ridge.
WML - Jul 27, 2010 12:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2010
stormed off
Thunder, Lightning, and Hail....got nuked off the route
granjero - Sep 9, 2009 7:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2005
awesome
mmmm hmmmm!
rhyang - Aug 17, 2009 10:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009
BCS NE Ridge
Car-to-car solo; Wonderful and exposed on ridge after joining N Arete. I love this climb. The summit mantle is hilarious fun.
Deb - Aug 23, 2021 10:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2021
16 Years LaterClimbed this route years ago with asshole, had much more fun this time with Kevin. Good scramble up and down with only "short arms and legs" issues for me downclimbing. Passed up a guided team who offered the use of the rope for us to get down; nope. New shoes and good skills got us out of there for a wonderful day of laughs and scrapes.
norco17 - Aug 25, 2019 10:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2019
Simul-climbed should have soloedMuch easier than we were expecting. Did with Joe in 3 pitches. We actually soloed the crux before putting on our rock shoes or roping up.
Drewid - Sep 2, 2017 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2015
Under Smoky SkiesStrange and unusual day with smoke and hot wind but an enjoyable trip up the NE Ridge with JG. Must come back for the North Arete.
MarekB - Aug 3, 2014 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2014
Awesome climbA very nice ridge with great rock. Highly recommended!
cbeats - Jul 28, 2014 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2014
Long dayJealous of all the fast car to car folks. Talus hopping approach with camping gear wasn't too fun, but even with staying at Dade it still took us pretty much the entire next day to climb and hike out.
Misha - Jul 8, 2013 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2013
C2CCar to car in 12 hours via Gem Lakes on a beautiful day. Solo'd with a 30m rope in the pack but ended up not using it...
haishan - Mar 13, 2013 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2012
soloA fun solo... the difficult section was shorter, but a little stouter, than I expected. Downclimbed the route.
oliverkalt - Sep 26, 2012 12:57 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2012
Nice climb on a beautiful summitNice. Less climbing than I expected.
dkangas - Aug 28, 2012 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
2nd TimeApproach Beta to minimize talus: go right around the Gem lakes (counterclockwise) along a small use trail all the way till you come up toward the cliffs on the west side. From there, look up right for a low point between the cliff and the high bluffs above the lake. There is a small amount of bushwacking but you can easily gain the low point by means of a light use trail. From that low point, contour left around the hill, with Treasure lakes on your right, in the direction of Dade Lake. Bear Creek Spire will come into view and guide you there.
WayneFry - Aug 27, 2012 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
NE RidgeCar to car from Mosquito flat with a group of seven from SMG. Stayed in one of the walk in sites the night before. About a 13 hour day. Just an all around fun climb. Near the top of the ridge we climbed through a small window and made our way around the backside of the peak to reach the summit. Great summit block!
Daria - Nov 4, 2011 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2010
winter ascentbrrr...dropped to zero at night. Cold, but fun climb!
cliffm - Oct 28, 2011 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
amazing daySolo car to car, beautiful day and awesome experience. Highlight of a longer trip.
dkangas - Sep 25, 2011 3:03 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011
Great SoloDue to the 5.5 rating we brought a rope and some pro, but no one felt like they needed it so we soloed the entire route. The summit block was an easy up and down. Rapped off the summit and went back by Ulrich's route. Took about 11 hours car to car.
Darren9 - Sep 25, 2011 2:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011
Time to go, early snowClimbed in one day from Mosquito Flat with SMG. Planned to use a running belay but ended up soloing the route because it was so much fun and the holds were plentiful. Great rock, scenic route. Getting to the summit from the end of the ridge was the hardest part, took a little recon to figure out the best way there. A snowstorm descended upon us at 11:00am while on our way down and made things a little exciting. North Arete looks amazing!
platypii - Feb 9, 2011 9:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009
BCSGreat climb! Amazing summit block! Beautiful area! Climbed in hiking boots and no rope. Route finding wasn't as bad as everyone says. Probably my favorite 4th class route so far!
JHH60 - Aug 27, 2010 9:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2007
SpicyThe summit traverse was nice and exposed...
PellucidWombat - Aug 23, 2010 6:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010
Nice Simul-ClimbHigh winds left me and Gordon Ye uncertain about climbing the route, but luckily the winds had eased off by the time we started the route. A great climb, and next time I'll be back for the North Ridge.
WML - Jul 27, 2010 12:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2010
stormed offThunder, Lightning, and Hail....got nuked off the route
granjero - Sep 9, 2009 7:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2005
awesomemmmm hmmmm!
rhyang - Aug 17, 2009 10:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009
BCS NE RidgeCar-to-car solo; Wonderful and exposed on ridge after joining N Arete. I love this climb. The summit mantle is hilarious fun.
Perfect weather and excellent views.
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Also did it in August 2007.