northwest glacier : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

This route provides the easiest and most direct access to the Peak and allows for other explorations as well. (Coal Crag and the ridge of Paleo Peak). The views are stunning with vistas of the Howson Range, 7 Sisters and Brian Boru. Depending upon the season will depend whether you are climbing steep snow pitches or Class 3 rock.

Getting There

Follow Highway 16 to Smithers BC. Just east of the town signs point to Hudson Bay Mountain ski hill. Follow those to the Hudson Bay Mt road. Approximately 15 km there will be a fork - left to McDonnell Lake and right to the ski hill. Follow the McDonnell Lake Forest Service Road to the Mulvain Forest Service Road until Km 55. Just after Km 55 posted there will be a small spur logging road to the right. Drive up to almost the landing. On the (northwest) left side of the road - uphill - find flagging. This starts the route for the Northwest glacier approach to Paleo Peak.

Route Description

After following the flagged route from the logging road to the basin (when just at treeline, trend left or northwest until reaching the basin - several watercourses and avalance gullies are traversed), the route continues along side a waterfall - make the easiest way up. (sometimes a snowfield, sometimes scree depending upon season). Continue up along the climber's left side along rock bands and snow to gain the glacier. The col between the Coal Crag and Paleo Peak is the obvious route up. The col is very small with large cornices. Follow rock bands and weaknesses to the summit. Depending upon the season will depend if it is a Class 3 rock scramble or a snow grovel.

Essential Gear

Glacier gear - Ice axe, helmet, rope, harness, prusiks etc.

Other views

Across the valley (Copper River) there are spectacular ranges that vary in accessibility and difficulties - Howson Range, Seven Sisters and Skeena Ranges

Images