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northwest glacier

 
northwest glacier

Page Type: Route

Location: BC, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 54.88293°N / 127.91382°W

Object Title: northwest glacier

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: Class 3

Difficulty: Alpine II

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: klwagar

Created/Edited: Oct 21, 2007 / Oct 21, 2007

Object ID: 349724

Hits: 1630 

Page Score: 85.87%  - 21 Votes 

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Overview

 
Map of route
 
 
route to the col
 
 
route up the col
 
This route provides the easiest and most direct access to the Peak and allows for other explorations as well. (Coal Crag and the ridge of Paleo Peak). The views are stunning with vistas of the Howson Range, 7 Sisters and Brian Boru. Depending upon the season will depend whether you are climbing steep snow pitches or Class 3 rock.

Getting There

Follow Highway 16 to Smithers BC. Just east of the town signs point to Hudson Bay Mountain ski hill. Follow those to the Hudson Bay Mt road. Approximately 15 km there will be a fork - left to McDonnell Lake and right to the ski hill. Follow the McDonnell Lake Forest Service Road to the Mulvain Forest Service Road until Km 55. Just after Km 55 posted there will be a small spur logging road to the right. Drive up to almost the landing. On the (northwest) left side of the road - uphill - find flagging. This starts the route for the Northwest glacier approach to Paleo Peak.

Route Description

 
Looking down the col
 
After following the flagged route from the logging road to the basin (when just at treeline, trend left or northwest until reaching the basin - several watercourses and avalance gullies are traversed), the route continues along side a waterfall - make the easiest way up. (sometimes a snowfield, sometimes scree depending upon season). Continue up along the climber's left side along rock bands and snow to gain the glacier. The col between the Coal Crag and Paleo Peak is the obvious route up. The col is very small with large cornices. Follow rock bands and weaknesses to the summit. Depending upon the season will depend if it is a Class 3 rock scramble or a snow grovel.

Essential Gear

 
going up the peak
 
Glacier gear - Ice axe, helmet, rope, harness, prusiks etc.

Other views

 
Lupins and Mt Sir Robert
 
Across the valley (Copper River) there are spectacular ranges that vary in accessibility and difficulties - Howson Range, Seven Sisters and Skeena Ranges

Images

Towards the waterfallgoing up the peakLupins and Mt Sir RobertView from the summitbushwack routelast pitchesroute to the col
route up the colLooking down the colMap of route