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Page Type: Route

Location: Lombardia/Graubünden (Bernina), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: NW-Ascent/Icenose

Route Type: Mixed Climb (Rock and Ice)

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: S, 60°, IV

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Rahel Maria Liu, hiltrud.liu

Created/Edited: Dec 15, 2001 / Apr 8, 2017

Object ID: 155994

Hits: 3177 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Piz Scerscen and Piz Roseg - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu

From the Tschiervahütte, you have to cross the glacier with direction to the W-foot of Piz Umur. From there, it goes up a steeper snowflank. Then you go on the glacier along the west side of Piz Umur to the firn saddle (the so called Fuorcla da l'Umur), which is located on 3273 m. You need about 2 1/2 h from the Tschiervahütte.

Route Description

  • Piz Bernina, Piz Scerscen and Piz Roseg - seen from the NW, from the Roseg Valley (Photo by rgg)

Piz Bernina, Piz Scerscen and Piz Roseg

From the firn saddle, you climb the rock ridge with SE-direction, mostly on the right side. The rocks are crumbling and bad. Maybe, this is the most difficult part of the route. After the rock passage comes the Ice Nose (Eisnase) (30m, 60°). Above the nose, you go up the firn flank, which is not very steep, until you reach the final steep ice flank. Now you go directly to the summit. It is 700 hm from the Fuorcla da l'Umur. If you are quick, you need 4-8 h. The descent is as well via the ice nose.

  • Route NW ascent Ice Nose - Piz Scerscen on August 11th, 2001 (Photos by Rahel Maria Liu and Bernhard Sauer)

Ascent Ice NosePiz Scerscen and Ice NoseNW Ridge

Essential Gear

Panoramic View of Piz Scerscen - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu

  • Gear: 2 ice axes, crampons, ice screws, slings


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Bianco-ridge to Piz Bernina...Piz Scerscen - North West...Piz Bernina, Piz Scerscen and Piz Roseg