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Piz Scerscen
Mountain/Rock

Piz Scerscen

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Piz Scerscen

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Lombardia/Graubünden (Bernina), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.37836°N / 9.89915°E

Object Title: Piz Scerscen

Elevation: 13028 ft / 3971 m

 

Page By: Rahel Maria Liu, gabriele, hiltrud.liu

Created/Edited: Dec 15, 2001 / Apr 7, 2014

Object ID: 150739

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Page Score: 93.81%  - 44 Votes 

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Overview

North Side of Piz Scerscen in August 2001 - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu


In memory of
Rahel Maria Liu, the former maintainer of this page. Rahel died on the Innominata Spur to Mont Blanc in a snowstorm on August 24th, 2004.

Bernina Group at sunrisePiz Scerscen - North SideItalian Route - South SideView from Italian SideItalian Normal Route




Piz Scerscen - a massif with rock and ice

    During a long time the Piz Scerscen (pronounced: cherchen, 3971 m) did not have any name because it has been seen as part of Piz Bernina. But indeed it is a big massif
    on its own with rock on the South (Italian) side and firn and ice on the North (Swiss) side. It goes from SW to NE, from the Porta da Roseg to the Bernina.

    The ascents from the Swiss side are altogether in firn and ice and quite difficult, especially the N flank with its hanging glaciers, which falls down with ice faces
    and ice breaks to the Vadret da Tschierva. The ascents from the Italian side are mostly rockclimbs.


Swiss Side - Bernina Group central range from North (Photo by gabriele)

Crast'Alva (Biancograt), Monte Scerscen and Piz Roseg north walls from the summit of Piz Morteratsch



    On the Swiss map, the Piz Scerscen is marked with 5 points:

    3781 m: The first rock tower between Porta da Roseg and P. 3875.

    P. 3875 m: The 'Schneehaube' with its little white firn cap, which is immediately noticed from people watching from the Swiss side. The rock ridge has become a firn ridge.

    3971 m (SAC)/3967 m (Vanis): This main summit is a free located rock tower, seen from the Piz Bernina.

    3954 m: This E summit is reached from the main summit via a small, almost horizontal ridge.

    3895 m: On this point is a widely visible tower, which is located in the Fuorcla Scerscen, a saddle, to which the ridge has been going down.



Historical notes

    The Piz Scerscen got its name when people become interested in the Ice Nose (Eisnase). It was climbed for the first time in summer 1877 (22th of Septemer)
    by Paul Güßfeld with the guides Graß and Capat. It got directly famous and is a standard ice tour till today.

    The nose is an ice break of the huge high firn plateau. In 1870, Heim and Güßfeld measured an absolute height of 60 meters. Ulrich Wieland,
    one of the most famous ice climbers of the 1930s estimated 100 meters in 1929, 30 m of it with 90°. Other people even estimated it still higher
    and as overhang. Erich Vanis, who climbed it 1958, thought, that it was about 50 to 60 meters high and with an average steepness of about 50°.

    The main reason why it has been estimated easier in later times is probably the advance of technical aid (crampons and ice screws)
    which lets the climbers belief that it is not as difficult as the first climbers thought.

    For the Routes compare the section Routes Overview below.





Getting There




PIZ SCERSCEN - Bernina Group - Swiss Side and Italian Side

North Side - Piz Bernina, Piz Scerscen, Piz Roseg (Photos by Rahel Maria Liu)

SWISS SIDE - Show labels



South Side - The Giants of Lombardia: Piz Roseg, Piz Scerscen, Piz Bernina, Cresta Güzza, Piz d'Argent, Piz Zupò and Monte Bellavista (Photos by gabriele)

ITALIAN SIDE - Show labels



To the Piz Scerscen:

    You come from the Tschiervahütte: cross the glacier in direction of the W foot of Piz Umur, from there you go the steeper snowflank up and on the
    glacier along the W side of Piz Umur.

    You come from the Rif. Marinelli-Bombardieri.



To the Tschiervahütte:

    You reach the hut from Pontresina: on foot (1h), by mountainbike (to rent at Roseg-Inn) or with coach (reservation by phone necessary!)
    to the Roseg-Inn (1999) in Roseg valley. You only have to follow the wide road.

    From Roseg-Inn, you cross the river via a bridge and go along the river till the way goes up over the hangs. You follow the way all the time and reach
    in 2 h the Tschiervahütte.

    You reach Pontresina by train or car on the road no. 29 from Samedan. You reach Samedan on the road no. 27 either from the NE (Zernez, via road no.
    28 from Davos in the N or from Bozen in the E) or from the SW from St. Moritz. To St. Moritz a few kilometers on the road no. 27
    from Silvaplana (and the Lago di Como). To Silvaplana, you can come also from the N from Chur on the road no. 3. To Chur: On the A13
    from the N from the Bodensee.




Infos

* NW Ridge with the Ice Nose (Photos by Bernhard Sauer and Helmut Dodel)

NW Ridge with the Ice Nose/Eisnase in the centreNW Ridge like a kingfisher (Eisvogel)



GENERAL INFOS

    Phone-numbers:

    Coacher (for reservation): 0041/81/8426057

    Roseg-Inn: 0041/81/8426445

    Touristinfo (Pontresina): 0041/81/8388300

    Internet: www.pontresina.com



WEATHER




CAMPINGPLACE

    There is a camping ground in Morteratsch, 10 min. by train from Pontresina.


Accomodation

Bernina on the right in the twilight - Photo by magico81



From the Swiss Side:

Tschierva Hütte (2580 m)




From the Italian Side:

Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri (2813 m)

      Tel: +393450481359





Maps&Books

Biancograt - Piz Bernina - Piz Scerscen and Ice Nose - Piz Roseg - Piz Aguagliouls - La Sella - Piz Glüschaint - La Muongia (Photo by selinunte01)



Schweizer Landeskarten:

    1:25000 no. 1277 Piz Bernina
    1:25000 no. 1257 St. Moritz
    1:50000 no. 268 Julierpaß


Dav-shop

Hikr.org - Piz Scerscen

UKC - Bernina

4000er - Karte

Piz Scerscen - Panorama
Piz Scerscen - Panorama 2

Piz Scerscen - Gr3000.ch mit Kartenausschnitt


BOOKS

    Pierino Giuliani, SAC Alpinführer: Bündner Alpen 5, Bernina-Massiv, 2006. engadin-Shop.ch

    Erich Vanis, Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980. ISBN 3-405-12158-2

    Walther Flaig, DAV-Gebietsführer: Berninagruppe. 1997. amazon.de

    Edwin Schmitt/Wolfgang Pusch, Hochtouren Ostalpen, 2008. ISBN: 3-7633-3010-0

    Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. amazon.com (look at the contents Piz Bernina)





Routes Overview

From the Swiss Side:


* Photos by Rahel Maria Liu - rgg - dmiki - selinunte01 - marco979

Val RosegN SidePiz ScerscenSwiss SideVal Roseg



N flank:

    SS, 8-10h from Tschiervahut (today scarcely ever climbed and not recommendable, even not as descent when having climbed up the Ice Nose) (SAC)


NW ascent Ice Nose (Eisnase):
    S, 6-7h from Tschierva Hut (SAC)
    700 hm (face), 40°-45°, at the Ice Nose till 60° (1-2 rope lengths), 3-4 h (from the Fuorcla da l'Umur) (Vanis)


* Photos by Rahel Maria Liu and Bernhard Sauer

NW ascent (Ice Nose) - NW Ridge during a winter ascent



WNW flank

    SS, 8-10h from the Tschiervahütte


From the Italian Side:

* Photos by Velebit - andrea.it - gabriele - marlenka - Corvus

Normal RouteS SideItalian RouteGlacierScerscen Gl



SE flank:

    ZS, III-IV, 6-8 h from Rif. Marinelli (SAC)


S Face:

    ZS, III-IV, 7-8h from Rif. Marinelli (SAC)


SW couloir:

    ZS, 6-8 h from Rif. Marinelli (SAC)


Traverse from SW to NE (Piz Bernina):

    S, III-IV, 6-8 h from Porta da Roseg (SAC)


* Climber's Logs

Link MountainArea

MountainArea



4000er - Gipfel - Piz Bernina

* On the way to the Ice Nose and Piz Scerscen - Photos by Bernhard Sauer, Marlenka, Rahel Maria Liu and from Ulrich Prinz




Google Map

* Google Map Bernina Group


Google Map Bernina Group


Images