DescribingThe Ober Gabelhorn (4063m) is one of the most difficult and insidious 4000m peak from switzerland (normalroute). The Arbengrat is a long alpin climbing tour with difficulties up to 4rd degree. We made the overrun/exceedance: Nordeast ridge - Wellenkuppe - Ober Gabelhorn - Arben ridge.
At 5am we started at the Rothorn-Hut 3198m and climbed over the east-ridge up to the Wellenkuppe at 3903m. Already here you have to cope with climbing at 2nd to 3rd degree. From the Wellenkuppe there is a narrow rige to the 'Kluckerturm' which will be climbed over. Afterwards it goes over the exposed and narrow firn ridge, which crosses the north wall to the rocks of the peak. Rocks come after firn and you reached the Ober Gabelhorn 4063m. After around 3 hours we were on the top. (leading time for ascent: 4,5 hours, time in guidebook).
The decision to take the descent of the catchy Arben-ridge came up late and spontanous, because we had still enough time. So we climbed down the Arbengrat into even more difficult areas as in the Nordeast ridge. Do it yourself - there were no abseil places. Soon we reached the Arbenbivouac and after a long run we also reached Zermatt. Finally, at the trainstation i was really exhausted but very happy.
A guide told us an evening before, that the Ober Gabelhorn belongs to the most sophisticated tours (normal route) in the region of Zermatt. That I just can confirm. But it is a gorgeous and combined tour which offers everything. Just fantastic!
> Difficulty: Arben ridge (Arbengrat) = S (D) / III-IV. Nordeast ridge = ZS+ (AD+) / III. Route No. 360 & 363
> Time required: 5-6 hours for the ascent.
> Guide book: "Hochtouren im Wallis" from Hermann Biner or "Clubführer Walliser Alpen No.3 vom Col Collon zum Theodulpass" from Maurice Brandt.
> Route: Rothorn-Hut - Triftgletscher - Wellenkuppe - North-east ridge - Ober Gabelhorn - Arben ridge - Arbenjoch - Arben glacier - Zermatt.
> Link to Obergabelhorn 4063m: Link to the Ober Gabelhorn tour
Written and climbed by Cyrill
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Accommodations- Rothorn hut 3198n: Link to the Rothurn hut
- Mountet hut 2886m: Link to the Mountet hut