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Gasherbrum I Additions and Corrections


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Damien GildeaRed Tape / LO

Damien Gildea

Hasn't voted

Just to clarify a bit:
- all expeds to peaks over 6500m need an LO
- if you have an LO, he joins you in Islamabad and goes to and from the mountain with you, whichever way you walk in.
- it is illegal for the leader of an exped to leave the exped before it is over. ie. before he has gone back to Islamabad with the LO for the debriefing.
- all expeds to peaks over 6500m require the US$6000 deposit for helo rescue. This has been the case for many years. A rescue insurance policy is not enough and nearly all embassies will NOT guarantee payment for you. Askari Aviation take your money and hang on to it while you are in the mountains. If you don't need rescuing, you just come back and get it. There's never been a problem getting money back if there was no rescue.
- the deposit is usually taken care of by guiding companies and agents, which is why some climbers get a shock when they try to organise something themselves.
- if you are just trekking in a restricted area, like the Baltoro, you only need a registered guide, no LO
- same with climbing on sub-6500m peaks
- the Hushe area used to be un-restricted, but as of a few years ago it is now restricted, so you officially need either a guide or LO to go beyond Hushe village, over to the Baltoro or elsewhere

D
Posted Mar 17, 2006 7:39 pm

CoraxRe: Red Tape / LO

Corax

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the input.

Comments on the above post.

Just to clarify a bit:
- all expeds to peaks over 6500m need an LO

Yes.

- if you have an LO, he joins you in Islamabad and goes to and from the mountain with you, whichever way you walk in.

The LO may join you in I-bad, but you can also hook up with him in the place from where you "need" him, for example in Skardu. You can also walk out via a restricted, but "non-LO-necessary area". A guide is then with you.

- it is illegal for the leader of an exped to leave the exped before it is over. ie. before he has gone back to Islamabad with the LO for the debriefing.

True.
The only exception is in case of illness and in that case the leadership of the expedition has to be transferred to another person in the group.

- all expeds to peaks over 6500m require the US$6000 deposit for helo rescue. This has been the case for many years. A rescue insurance policy is not enough and nearly all embassies will NOT guarantee payment for you. Askari Aviation take your money and hang on to it while you are in the mountains. If you don't need rescuing, you just come back and get it. There's never been a problem getting money back if there was no rescue.

This issue was never even mentioned to me. I heard about other expeditions being asked for the deposit, but to my knowledge, no one in the team I joined put down the deposit. I was told I may be asked for an insurance that covered heli rescue, but that never happened either.

- the deposit is usually taken care of by guiding companies and agents, which is why some climbers get a shock when they try to organise something themselves.

True.
One gang had never heard about the issue and didn't have the money for the deposit. They had to change target.

- if you are just trekking in a restricted area, like the Baltoro, you only need a registered guide, no LO

Yep.

- same with climbing on sub-6500m peaks

Yes.

- the Hushe area used to be un-restricted, but as of a few years ago it is now restricted, so you officially need either a guide or LO to go beyond Hushe village, over to the Baltoro or elsewhere

A guide is enough. The rules are according to two LOs very unclear about this. They said you officially don't need either a guide or an LO for this route. The "rescue team" based closed to the Gondogoro La may stop you though, even if the don't have the right to do so according to "the military book of law".

Last year the LOs in the Baltoro area were very upset about the fact that the commercial organizers (specifically one of them) left a lot of responsibillities to the LOs. They sent guides up with the group, but in order to use this guide for other tasks, he left after arrival. Sometimes LOs had to "guide" a group out of the area on trails he had never visited.

The bottom line is of course to double check all issues and rather expect the hard line Damien posted than basing them on the comments I made. I just wanted to let you know about my experiences in 2005.
Posted Mar 20, 2006 8:19 pm

Damien GildeaBalti

Damien Gildea

Hasn't voted

J,
Re: the Kammerlander/Messner traverse, it was the Balti porter 'Little Karim' who was with them, not a Sherpa.
D
Posted Feb 26, 2007 12:55 am

CoraxRe: Balti

Corax

Hasn't voted

Thanks for pointing this out. I will re-read the info in the climbing history table once more. Most of it isn't my info, but a rest from former maintainers.
J.
Posted Feb 26, 2007 2:19 pm

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