Having been to all the trailheads on the north side of Mount Shasta and visited most of the areas in question, the unanimous consent of those who have tried the different approaches is that Coquette Falls trailhead is the best and easiest approach for the Whitney Glacier. There is far too much bushwacking from Whitney Falls (loose talus and sand is not the problem as indicated above). North Gate approach is too far to the east (an extra mile of walking and traversing) and the trailhead is even lower on the mountain, though if you lack high clearance or fear scratches on your vehicle it is the only option. Coquette is much closer to the glacier and an easy and straightforward ascent.
Like the rangers I recommend traversing lower than the above writeup indicates if you start from North Gate. Heading all the way up to Marine Camp requires traversing the Bolam Glacier and misses the bottom portion of the Whitney Glacier. The traverse at 8600 feet is not difficult, but not as good as from Coquette.
There are good camping options in the basin at 9600 feet below Bolam Glacier, and a very easy approach from Coquette with your pack. Other options are on the broad Whitney-Bolam ridge at 10400 feet, or on the moraines at the base of Whitney Glacier. All offer easier approaches to the base of the glacier than described above and I think most suitable camps than Marine Camp. Marine Camp is best utilized for ascents of the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.
Also I vehemently disagree with the author's recommendations on optimal descent routes, as descenting the Whitney Glacier is typically not difficult and is the preferred option by most parties. Another option would be the Whitney-Bolam Ridge, perhaps preferred when there is either snow on the ridge or the glacier is more ice than snow. In no case would most find the Bolam Glacier or Hotlum-Bolam ridge to be preferred descents, except perhaps in the rare case where Marine Camp was utilized... but that in itself is unusual for the Whitney Glacier (as noted that camp is best for Hotlum-Bolam ridge ascents).
These comments simply based on numerous ascents of the north side of the mountain, but feel free to make your own decisions.
I climbed Mt Shasta via the Whitney Glacier over the July 4th weekend 1975. We hiked up a sandy and rocky and trail less route to the base of the Whitney Glacier, at 10,500'. We camped there and started the climb around 3:00am. I remember the route appearing to have a lower and upper icefall separated by a short steep snow field. I still remember a party member (there were 4 of us), stating to the leader about going off to the left to avoid the icefall, and the leader answering back with you can go left if you choose however the rest of us are going that way, pointing up the icefall, lol. Anyway we climbed several fairly steep sections that required front pointing up seracs as it was broken up as that was a light snow fall year. We were in a maze of crevasses and the upper icefall was steeper then the lower one. We finally after 4 hours came to the saddle and a long miserable scree slope to below the summit which we gained around 8:30am. We descended the long scree slope and it was still below freezing so we decided to descend the climbing route we used on the accent. It was a little tricky in spots however worth the effort as that was a very good climb that I still remember today. We all came from the Seattle Wa area and rented a van for the 500 mile drive each way. It was crystal clear out and cold and was a great climb. Three of us later in 1978 climbed Liberty Ridge on Mt Rainer and made the summit. In summary the Whitney Glacier is a great climb when the ice is exposed and fun.
Ron
Well, I would reconsider some of the info above about Whitney Glacier route and how to access it.
The first time I climbed Whitney Glacier with a friend of mine was the longest approach from Bolam TH (5,5000) in the summer of 2,000; I call it a complete route. Since then I’ve been climbing this route on average once a year and have never seen any other climbers; it’s one of my most favorite routes on Mt Shasta. However, to make the approach easier I usually go through Hidden Valley and the Cascade Gulch to Shastina’s saddle and drop a few hundred feet down to the glacier by traversing just above and along the middle bergshrund. From there depend how I feel and what I want to do I use different approach to climb to the summit. I used to climb this route with my full backpack (even camping on the top), and most often solo.
Because of that I’ve learned (and still do) something new about this route any time I climb it. The overall route architecture obviously stay the same but the obstacles, or I would rather say interesting and exciting features, may change dramatically from climb to climb. Sometimes it’s a lot of ice climbing requiring two ice tools; some other times it’s just a snowfield. But even then or especially then be aware of hidden crevasses because Whitney Glacier, beside the prominent bergshrunds, has many (hidden) crevasses along its length. The other hazard, especially later in the season, a climber has to consider are constant (every few minutes) rock falls from both, Shastina and Bolam/Whitney Ridge; that’s one of the reasons the glacier look so dirty and dusty.
Here are a few videos from my previous trips in various conditions that may give you a better idea what to expect (seeing is believing): Mt Shasta Whitney Glacier by clmbr
mrchad9 - May 23, 2013 6:15 pm - Voted 2/10
Better Approach and CampsHaving been to all the trailheads on the north side of Mount Shasta and visited most of the areas in question, the unanimous consent of those who have tried the different approaches is that Coquette Falls trailhead is the best and easiest approach for the Whitney Glacier. There is far too much bushwacking from Whitney Falls (loose talus and sand is not the problem as indicated above). North Gate approach is too far to the east (an extra mile of walking and traversing) and the trailhead is even lower on the mountain, though if you lack high clearance or fear scratches on your vehicle it is the only option. Coquette is much closer to the glacier and an easy and straightforward ascent.
Like the rangers I recommend traversing lower than the above writeup indicates if you start from North Gate. Heading all the way up to Marine Camp requires traversing the Bolam Glacier and misses the bottom portion of the Whitney Glacier. The traverse at 8600 feet is not difficult, but not as good as from Coquette.
There are good camping options in the basin at 9600 feet below Bolam Glacier, and a very easy approach from Coquette with your pack. Other options are on the broad Whitney-Bolam ridge at 10400 feet, or on the moraines at the base of Whitney Glacier. All offer easier approaches to the base of the glacier than described above and I think most suitable camps than Marine Camp. Marine Camp is best utilized for ascents of the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.
Also I vehemently disagree with the author's recommendations on optimal descent routes, as descenting the Whitney Glacier is typically not difficult and is the preferred option by most parties. Another option would be the Whitney-Bolam Ridge, perhaps preferred when there is either snow on the ridge or the glacier is more ice than snow. In no case would most find the Bolam Glacier or Hotlum-Bolam ridge to be preferred descents, except perhaps in the rare case where Marine Camp was utilized... but that in itself is unusual for the Whitney Glacier (as noted that camp is best for Hotlum-Bolam ridge ascents).
These comments simply based on numerous ascents of the north side of the mountain, but feel free to make your own decisions.
aliqat - Dec 17, 2013 5:19 pm - Hasn't voted
Mt Shasta Whitney GlacierI climbed Mt Shasta via the Whitney Glacier over the July 4th weekend 1975. We hiked up a sandy and rocky and trail less route to the base of the Whitney Glacier, at 10,500'. We camped there and started the climb around 3:00am. I remember the route appearing to have a lower and upper icefall separated by a short steep snow field. I still remember a party member (there were 4 of us), stating to the leader about going off to the left to avoid the icefall, and the leader answering back with you can go left if you choose however the rest of us are going that way, pointing up the icefall, lol. Anyway we climbed several fairly steep sections that required front pointing up seracs as it was broken up as that was a light snow fall year. We were in a maze of crevasses and the upper icefall was steeper then the lower one. We finally after 4 hours came to the saddle and a long miserable scree slope to below the summit which we gained around 8:30am. We descended the long scree slope and it was still below freezing so we decided to descend the climbing route we used on the accent. It was a little tricky in spots however worth the effort as that was a very good climb that I still remember today. We all came from the Seattle Wa area and rented a van for the 500 mile drive each way. It was crystal clear out and cold and was a great climb. Three of us later in 1978 climbed Liberty Ridge on Mt Rainer and made the summit. In summary the Whitney Glacier is a great climb when the ice is exposed and fun.
Ron
clmbr - Jun 1, 2014 1:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Mt Shasta Whitney Glacier by clmbrWell, I would reconsider some of the info above about Whitney Glacier route and how to access it.
The first time I climbed Whitney Glacier with a friend of mine was the longest approach from Bolam TH (5,5000) in the summer of 2,000; I call it a complete route. Since then I’ve been climbing this route on average once a year and have never seen any other climbers; it’s one of my most favorite routes on Mt Shasta. However, to make the approach easier I usually go through Hidden Valley and the Cascade Gulch to Shastina’s saddle and drop a few hundred feet down to the glacier by traversing just above and along the middle bergshrund. From there depend how I feel and what I want to do I use different approach to climb to the summit. I used to climb this route with my full backpack (even camping on the top), and most often solo.
Because of that I’ve learned (and still do) something new about this route any time I climb it. The overall route architecture obviously stay the same but the obstacles, or I would rather say interesting and exciting features, may change dramatically from climb to climb. Sometimes it’s a lot of ice climbing requiring two ice tools; some other times it’s just a snowfield. But even then or especially then be aware of hidden crevasses because Whitney Glacier, beside the prominent bergshrunds, has many (hidden) crevasses along its length. The other hazard, especially later in the season, a climber has to consider are constant (every few minutes) rock falls from both, Shastina and Bolam/Whitney Ridge; that’s one of the reasons the glacier look so dirty and dusty.
Here are a few videos from my previous trips in various conditions that may give you a better idea what to expect (seeing is believing): Mt Shasta Whitney Glacier by clmbr