Whitney Glacier, the longest glacier in CaliforniaWhitney Glacier became my favorite route on Mt Shasta immediately after my first attempt and usually I climb it every year. To shorten the distance to the glacier, most of the time I climb this route via Hidden Valley, Cascade Gulch and then from the Shastina saddle drop a few hundred feet down and enter it just above the middle bergshrund. From there a few variations exist to the top.
The North Gate approach, May 24-26, 2014 (Memorial Day Weekend)This was a very long climb but we all got safely to the top and back. The conditions were seemingly great, as I call it a snowfield, but that year Shasta did not receive much snow. Three of us partially fell in hidden crevasses. This was my first crevasse fall on Whitney Glacier.
Whitney Glacier Icefall, the North Gate Approach, August 3-5, 2013This was a long but very enjoyable climb of Whitney Icefalls even though we did not summit.
My first and the only attempt of Whitney Glacier from Bolam Trailhead, a very long approach, July 30 - August 2, 2000This was my first attempt via Whitney Glacier. Since then I’ve been climbing Whitney Glacier at least once a year (practically every year). This trip was in the middle of summer when days were very hot but nights not so. What the video does not show is that I decided not to cross the clicking glacier back to our base camp at dark and we spent a night on rocks. It was a long and painful night with constant loud noises made by Shastina and Bolam/Whitney Ridge throwing rocks down.
My Whitney Glacier Trip Reports
Whitney Glacier Icefalls