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Original Route
Route

Original Route

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Montana, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 45.35410°N / 111.4051°W

Object Title: Original Route

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: III, 5.10

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: gato

Created/Edited: Jul 24, 2003 / Jul 24, 2003

Object ID: 158362

Hits: 2208 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Approach from Beehive Basin trailhead. Once at the lake, hike (off-trail) to the base of the main buttress.

Route Description


This route starts approx. 30 meters left of the standard route. Begin in a shallow cave below a left-facing dihedral. Pull off the ground and climb the corner/crack system for as far as you want. There is a belay at 30 meters (route is 5.8 to this belay) or a hanging belay at 55-60 meters (5.9 to this belay). Second pitch continues up and through difficult, awkward overhanging corner (5.10) to ledge. (Optional belay here) Clip the fixed nut and continue up and right (5.6) or move out left on hand traverse to another hanging belay (5.7).

Direct variation: From the top of the hand traverse, continue straight up through another roof (5.10) and onto easier terrain until the summit.

Right variation: After the 5.6 crack system, either continue up and right on moderate terrain until you can scramble left to the summit, or break left at the top of the third pitch for more 5.9 crack. Angle eases off considerably as you near the summit.

Left variation: After the 5.7 hand traverse, continue up the shallow right-facing corner, trending generally left. Easy climbing and scrambling through the path of least resistance will take you directly to the summit.


Essential Gear


Standard rack to a #4 Camalot (very helpful in the wide crack on first pitch). Again, axes might be useful in early/late season climbs. 60 meter rope recommended. Take double ropes if you've got'em and you like'em.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.