Awesome that you guys are getting out there and getting after it, but the climb goes at 3rd/4th class in every mention of it out there...fight grade creep and keep it real.
Yeah. Jealous of the activity, but 3rd and 4th is 3rd and 4th. It may feel harder in winter gear. You may want a rope and pro, but it doesn't justify a rating increase. Just know what your full condition capabilities are.
If you read closely, I'm pretty sure we were off route from the 'summer route' on the crux section (we traversed about 100 ft lower through the crux), and snow limits certain climbing moves or where you climb. That's why I stated it was our winter grade and what we experienced, NOT what the route actually is via the most correct routefinding in dry conditions. If you have to do 5th class moves to get around a 3rd class section that is impassable with snow, I'm sorry, but those are still 5th class moves.
Our joke Russian Grade variation in the stats should indicate how serious we are in stating our experience as the route's rating and the subjectivity of attempting to rate a route anyways.
I've led mid-5th dry rock in my boots and have done routes in winter that are officially rated 5.6 in winter snow, and I've done a fair amount of drytooling practice so I'm used to using my tools on rock. I also just did a route rated 5.4-5.5 with snow and boots at altitude a month prior and the couple of crux moves on this route were harder with fewer alternatives. Go figure. I think I have a pretty good sense of what my condition capabilities are.
I do see where there can be some confusion from a skim of only the stats section though. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I'll make it more clear on this and the Humphreys report!
"but the climb goes at 3rd/4th class in every mention of it out there"
Funny, but the only other entry in the register from a winter ascent mentioned it being harder than 3rd/4th in those conditions as well. Does that count as a mention?
I'm somewhat offended that you thought my grade of the route a joke. I gave is Russian Grade I, 4.11b and I stand by it. Alright, maybe it was a soft 4.11b. Maybe 4.11b-.
the key idea about this that I've learned is that that assumes you can find the way in the dark! If we knew better where to go to finish & descend then we could have just pressed on through the night without a bivy.
WML - Mar 21, 2011 11:35 pm - Hasn't voted
fight grade creepAwesome that you guys are getting out there and getting after it, but the climb goes at 3rd/4th class in every mention of it out there...fight grade creep and keep it real.
Aaron Dyer - Mar 21, 2011 11:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: fight grade creepYeah. Jealous of the activity, but 3rd and 4th is 3rd and 4th. It may feel harder in winter gear. You may want a rope and pro, but it doesn't justify a rating increase. Just know what your full condition capabilities are.
Way to rock though!
PellucidWombat - Mar 22, 2011 12:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: fight grade creepIf you read closely, I'm pretty sure we were off route from the 'summer route' on the crux section (we traversed about 100 ft lower through the crux), and snow limits certain climbing moves or where you climb. That's why I stated it was our winter grade and what we experienced, NOT what the route actually is via the most correct routefinding in dry conditions. If you have to do 5th class moves to get around a 3rd class section that is impassable with snow, I'm sorry, but those are still 5th class moves.
Our joke Russian Grade variation in the stats should indicate how serious we are in stating our experience as the route's rating and the subjectivity of attempting to rate a route anyways.
I've led mid-5th dry rock in my boots and have done routes in winter that are officially rated 5.6 in winter snow, and I've done a fair amount of drytooling practice so I'm used to using my tools on rock. I also just did a route rated 5.4-5.5 with snow and boots at altitude a month prior and the couple of crux moves on this route were harder with fewer alternatives. Go figure. I think I have a pretty good sense of what my condition capabilities are.
SKI - Mar 22, 2011 8:38 am - Voted 10/10
Re: fight grade creepFight Grade Creep
Play nice, boys.
Comments should be based off experience of the climb- not armchair reading.
PellucidWombat - Mar 22, 2011 2:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: fight grade creepI do see where there can be some confusion from a skim of only the stats section though. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I'll make it more clear on this and the Humphreys report!
PellucidWombat - Mar 24, 2011 12:38 am - Hasn't voted
Re: fight grade creep"but the climb goes at 3rd/4th class in every mention of it out there"
Funny, but the only other entry in the register from a winter ascent mentioned it being harder than 3rd/4th in those conditions as well. Does that count as a mention?
kevin trieu - Mar 22, 2011 11:37 am - Voted 10/10
I'm offendedI'm somewhat offended that you thought my grade of the route a joke. I gave is Russian Grade I, 4.11b and I stand by it. Alright, maybe it was a soft 4.11b. Maybe 4.11b-.
granjero - Mar 22, 2011 12:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I'm offendedDoesn't a russian grade have a minimum vodka consumption rate of 1L/(person*day) associated with it in order to be legally invoked?
PellucidWombat - Mar 22, 2011 1:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I'm offendedNot quite a liter, but we did supplement with a flask of Jamison, so that has to count for something!
PellucidWombat - Mar 22, 2011 2:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I'm offendedNot a surprise anymore :-P
rgg - Mar 22, 2011 1:09 pm - Voted 10/10
Great trip,and very well written too!
PellucidWombat - Mar 22, 2011 4:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great trip,Thanks!
Bob Burd - Mar 22, 2011 11:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Good job guysWay to get it done!
PellucidWombat - Mar 24, 2011 12:40 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good job guysThanks! Yet another one of your crazy outings giving me crazy ideas :-D
hamik - Mar 26, 2011 5:48 am - Voted 10/10
YupYou definitely have a bivy fetish, Mark ;-). Good work! I was hoping you'd write this up when I saw pictures on FB.
PellucidWombat - Mar 27, 2011 5:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Yuphaha, thanks man. Hopefully as the days get longer and the routes drier the bivies will happen less often :-P
MoapaPk - Mar 27, 2011 10:32 am - Voted 10/10
slizzard in the blizzardCarry bivy stuff. and you will use it...
PellucidWombat - Mar 27, 2011 2:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: slizzard in the blizzardthat's why I'm a fan of the backpack + a bit more clothing combo. Then I can tell myself it's not bivy stuff.
That strategy doesn't seem to be working though. :-)
PellucidWombat - Mar 27, 2011 9:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: slizzard in the blizzard"In *retrospect*"
the key idea about this that I've learned is that that assumes you can find the way in the dark! If we knew better where to go to finish & descend then we could have just pressed on through the night without a bivy.
ClimbandBike - Mar 27, 2011 1:00 pm - Voted 10/10
Way to........get after it! Great looking trip and nice to see friends out having fun climbing together.