Hey guys,

I just want to see what your alpine rack looks like. So Pics are encouraged, but descriptions are ok also! I want to see what else I would need if I started getting into alpine climbing. Right now I have a full free-climbing rack, so what else would I need? Im judging whether or not I can afford getting into this right now

-CS

climberslacker wrote:Hey guys,

I just want to see what your alpine rack looks like. So Pics are encouraged, but descriptions are ok also! I want to see what else I would need if I started getting into alpine climbing. Right now I have a full free-climbing rack, so what else would I need? Im judging whether or not I can afford getting into this right now

-CS

add pitons for inexpensive and safe bailing. if you have a free rack you already have everything you need.

also get half ropes if you don't have a pair yet.

It really depends on the routes you're climbing, and the season you're climbing in. Can't really make any *truly* useful suggestions without knowing that.

Winter on Mt. Washington is not August in the Cascades.

But for pitons don't I also need a hammer or not?

I was thinking about doing some stuff in the sierra in both winter and summer. Maybe Lone Pine Peak eventually

-CS

climberslacker wrote:But for pitons don't I also need a hammer or not?

I was thinking about doing some stuff in the sierra in both winter and summer. Maybe Lone Pine Peak eventually

-CS

In the sierras, slings and rings would suffice for bailing imo...messy but sometimes a necessary evil

I would say take pitons only in winter when you are carrying ice tools. When we climbed LPP we took about 3/4 of a typical multi-pitch Tahquitz rack. I use the same gear wherever I am climbing so I think the best advice is to lighten up whenever possible. I use exclusively Mammut 8mm slings and BD Oz Carabiners which saves weight. If I know I won't be rapping the route I will use a Sterling 9.2x60M but if I anticipate lots of rapping then I will use either 8.4x60M or 8.8x50M half ropes.

So, are there any good, all around sizes of pitons that would work most places. Im thinking maybe a finger crack size, but I really don't know. Also, I don't have a half rope or a twin rope, but I do have a 9.5mm. And in no way am I ready for LPP now, but maybe when I'm 17 I will try it. But if anyone is going soon and needs a buddy....
I standard Tahquitz rack is protection to 3 inches right?

-CS

My full rack is a set a Camalots .3-4 w/ doubles of .5-2 and a few TCUs and a set of Stoppers. I'll carry a few alpine draws and a bunch of slings over the shoulder. I've done LPP in fall and summer conditions and we took the same rack both times which was the Stoppers, TCUs and Camalots .75-2 w/ doubles. I left the extra small and big pieces at home. I think you could get a way with a single rope but if you have to bail it will just be more work and require leaving more slings/rings.

alleyehave wrote:

climberslacker wrote:But for pitons don't I also need a hammer or not?

I was thinking about doing some stuff in the sierra in both winter and summer. Maybe Lone Pine Peak eventually

-CS

In the sierras, slings and rings would suffice for bailing imo...messy but sometimes a necessary evil

Less of an evil than leaving something more permanent and damaging like pitons. Nuts are another more inexpensive option if you can't find anything to sling.

fossana wrote:

alleyehave wrote:

climberslacker wrote:But for pitons don't I also need a hammer or not?

I was thinking about doing some stuff in the sierra in both winter and summer. Maybe Lone Pine Peak eventually

-CS

In the sierras, slings and rings would suffice for bailing imo...messy but sometimes a necessary evil

Less of an evil than leaving something more permanent and damaging like pitons. Nuts are another more inexpensive option if you can't find anything to sling.

I agree. But I still carry one to two pitons in the alpine, not that heavy and gives you more options. I have not used one yet, have been able to use slings. Kinda like a avy beacon, also hoping never to use one

In my mind 'Alpine' means there is ice present, other wise it is just 'rock' climbing.

I do most of my alpine climbing in Alaska and Washington. Here is a typical alpine rack:

-Up tp 6 ice screws with several stubbies and one long one
-3-4 kb and Bugaboo pitons in different lengths and thicknesses
- #1 & #2 angle piton
-6 largest nuts
-.5, .75, 1, 2 Camalots
- 8 single sewn runners
-2 double sewn runners
- 40 feet 6 mm bail cord

Really comes down to what kind of "alpine" climbing you are doing. You won't bring the same rack on Cerro Torre as the Cassin Ridge. If you are going for alpine rock climbing, then bring the rack you bring to the crag if you are willing to carry the weight. Otherwise ditch the cams and learn how to place hexes.

kovarpa wrote:I agree. But I still carry one to two pitons in the alpine, not that heavy and gives you more options. I have not used one yet, have been able to use slings. Kinda like a avy beacon, also hoping never to use one

Yeah, but hammers are heavy. If I'm climbing ice/mixed and I already have a hammer-headed tool, pitons make sense. But bringing pitons without a hammer doesn't make sense, and hammers are heavy to bring along just in case if there are other options (like nuts).