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Common Pin Sizes

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Postby rhyang » Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:41 am

Someone on neice.com recommended that PDF to me when I asked about pitons on ice / mixed lines (I was able to print it out no problem - let me know if you want a copy Jim). I hate to digress, but does anyone of that, uh, persuasion have recommendations on what to carry ? I'm thinking of picking up a couple to practice placing / cleaning in places like Lee Vining Canyon, roadcuts, etc.
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Postby JScoles » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:25 pm

For Ice I usually keep a few bugaboo knife-blades as they are the only things that go into thin cracks securely and are relatively light and easy to place.

That being said I haven't place one ice or mixed climbing in about 5 years and I alway leave them behind well for the two times I place one I did.

I always find it strange that climbers who would never in a 1000 years nail a pin in summer will place then in the winter??? A very funny case of situational ethics.

cheers
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Postby Dragger » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:59 pm

Rob,
I left three kb's at the top of the right side of Horsetail falls a couple of years ago, when a hasty retreat was necessary as night was approaching and temperatures were falling like crazy...

And John,
Doesn't it seem like people are usually climbing a lot more "off the beaten track" during the winter than during the summer? I seem to find myself doing that, anyway. Maybe that's why people don't hesitate as much to throw a pin in during winter, I dunno.
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Postby HandjamMasterC » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:11 pm

Rob, a couple of baby angles ( 1/2" and 5/8", or BD angle #1 and #2 ) come in handy too, plus what JScoles said. I never leave pins in ice gullys though - the next guy will just steal them. Hell, people are stealing the bolt hangers and nuts off of things like the Le Conte Boulder bolt ladder!
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Postby HandjamMasterC » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:13 pm

I always find it strange that climbers who would never in a 1000 years nail a pin in summer will place then in the winter??? A very funny case of situational ethics.


Not necessarily. One may find the nice big cracks of summer that could take a cam to be invisible and buried under ice in the winter!!
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Postby JD » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:35 pm

Last edited by JD on Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby HandjamMasterC » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:47 pm

No mention of sawed off angles though, which I thought was odd.


Sawed offs may be more a Yosemite aid gear requirement. I just sawed off a 3/4" and 1" angle yesterday, as a matter of fact, to bolster my aid pin rack for this coming season................ 8)
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Postby Dave Daly » Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:46 pm

I foresee myself nailing more pins on routes that haven't seen a second ascent. Not gonna list 'em but that was the purpose of the initial question. didn't know this was going to turn into a 'How to aid climb' thread. :lol:
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Postby rhyang » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:01 pm

Thanks again Craig, Carolyn and John. I managed to get some practice with the baby angles and knifeblades last weekend.

About knifeblades, do you normally just carry the BD #1 (for the purposes noted above - ice/mixed/couloirs/etc) ? I see that BD also makes a slighly longer KB (#2), and also some they call Bugaboos, which appear to be even thicker and longer (#3-6). Or would it be better to just equalize smaller nuts for those size cracks ?

(BD specs)
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Postby Craig Peer » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:06 pm

If I think I'll need blades, I'll carry 3 or 4 different lengths and thicknesses of KB and Bugs. You generally can't use nuts in a knifeblade seam / crack, hence the need for blades!
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Postby PellucidWombat » Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:04 pm

very informative thread and great PDF link!

I'd been wondering about the use of pitons for winter climbing (need, ethics, etc.), and what would be a reasonable rack to carry for such climbs if they were worth bringing on certain climbs (and what types of climbs those would be).
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Postby brokesomeribs » Sat Aug 07, 2010 2:53 am

PellucidWombat wrote:very informative thread and great PDF link!

I'd been wondering about the use of pitons for winter climbing (need, ethics, etc.), and what would be a reasonable rack to carry for such climbs if they were worth bringing on certain climbs (and what types of climbs those would be).


I've got a couple pins of various sizes (KB's, angles, and one LA) and I carried them for a season and never placed a single one while on the sharp end.

I've come to the realization that carrying pins does not make me any cooler, only weighs me down, and will likely never be placed unless I'm on a route with the following qualifications:

-Multipitch
-Alpine setting
-Mixed terrain
-Not easy (At least WI 4-, M4)

On anything else, you won't find any placements or the climbing will be easy enough that stopping to find a placement and hammer in a pin isn't really worth the objective danger. ight as well just casually stroll on up another 20 feet and fire in a fat screw.

Obviously these are generalizations, and there are always exceptions to the rule (especially in climbing) but I've found them to be a pretty good set of guidelines.
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