I love climbing in courtright, what are your favorite routes/domes there? On a related topic I'm 99% sure kenny and barry replaced the bolts on power line a few weeks back. Well I know they did, but I'm only 99% sure they got all the pitches done.

-jr[/list]

savage henry wrote:I love climbing in courtright, what are your favorite routes/domes there? On a related topic I'm 99% sure kenny and barry replaced the bolts on power line a few weeks back. Well I know they did, but I'm only 99% sure they got all the pitches done.

-jr[/list]

Eazy...... the triple crown.

The Gold Standard.

Smiladon.

By Jupiter, there are rings around Uranus.

bolts replaced a few weeks ago? was it cold?

Carson / Kodas Arete!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kris you want to lead that one for us again?

Rob wrote:Carson / Kodas Arete!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kris you want to lead that one for us again?

At present that route is outside of my risk profile. Look me up toward the end of August (I will have been in The Needles much of the summer) and ask me then...

Triple Crown? Hmm...

Smiladon is a fave, but too small to make the final cut.
Gold Standard is a must do testpiece for sure, but it ends where the climbing becomes even more extreme - obviously the crux lies above...

Carson Kodas Arete / Best in The West / By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus.

So Henry..... what are your faves???

I also really like Esto Power and Welcome to Courtwright. The 4th pitch is the welcome pitch.... you do that graney lay back, look up the blank face, see zero bolts, go for it- and your rewarded when you find the first little hole, than another and another......



the worst POS in the place is "Drill Sargent" ...... 5.4? with about 15 bolts... IMHO the worst thing ever. I don't know what those "berpers" were thinking.

Here's a dumb question: what climbs 5.8 and under would folks recommend ?

I've led Tao (5.7), the 5.7 crack on the Tiger Cage, and a newer 5.7 slab route to the right of Drill Instructor already. I want to go back and finish Divorce Quartz

I don't know if I have a favorite up there, something on power dome perhaps. There's a 5.10 that I like up there that I can't even remember the name. And yes it was cold up there and yes I may have underexagerated the timeline, maybe nov/dec ish?

Yeah drill instructor is pretty bad and it begs the question, why? Its probably 5.12 by the time you get all the weight of those draws on : ) how's the climbing on the broken tiers, I've never been over there.

Hats off to you guys up there on those fa's.

-jr

rhyang wrote:Here's a dumb question: what climbs 5.8 and under would folks recommend ?

I've led Tao (5.7), the 5.7 crack on the Tiger Cage, and a newer 5.7 slab route to the right of Drill Instructor already. I want to go back and finish Divorce Quartz

Rob, do you have the SEKI guide? I haven't climbed them, but have been told that the moderates on Leopold Dome are first rate. A nice little hike from the end of the road past Trapper Dome - I've been by there it's a beautiful spot.

rhyang wrote:Here's a dumb question: what climbs 5.8 and under would folks recommend ?

I've led Tao (5.7), the 5.7 crack on the Tiger Cage, and a newer 5.7 slab route to the right of Drill Instructor already. I want to go back and finish Divorce Quartz

Penstemon
-ROPE A DOPE .8+
-SMILING FACES .7+


Trapper
- GOOD DEED .5
- DRILL INSTRUCTOR .4 (A little over bolted but fun.. Took my
Banger Kids here often)


Marmot

Several on both the West and South Faces
(Took My Gangbanger Kids here for several days of TRing)

Power Dome

A LITTLE NUKEY .8+

I don't know what those "berpers" were thinking. Evil or Very Mad Mad Mad Mad

Best to ask Alois on that one. Pretty sure he mentioned his involvement on that one and dragging some movie star chick up that route on the FA.


TRAPPER DOME:
- Zodiac Mind Warp (.10)
- Anyone Got A Cigarette? (+9/.10a)

POWER DOME:
- A Little Nukey (.9-)
- Welcome To Courtright (.10a/b)
- Unknown Route (.10a....left of 'A Little Nukey)

PENSTAMON DOME:
- Shake The Flake (.9)
- Captain America (.10a/b)
- Song The Earth (.10a).....exceptional!

TIGER CAGE:

- Little Black Sambo (.9+)
- This Pussy Eats You (.10b)

TIGER WALL:
- Tanya Shows Her Stripes (.10?)

What are the best routes that aren't slab (5.10 and under)?

...I hate slab climbing...

Tom Fralich wrote:What are the best routes that aren't slab (5.10 and under)?

...I hate slab climbing...

If you're cool with steep face climbing there are a few good .10's on Trapper Dome.

Orgasm Addict, Mommy's Little Monster and Nosferatu are good 5.10 routes, steep not slabby.

But if,as you say you really hate slab climbing Courtright is probably not the place for you.

I love slab climbing ! It was the first kind of technical rock climbing I ever learned.

Thanks for the suggestions guys -- took a highlighter to my copy of the Seki guidebook (scanned pages really). btw A buddy says he got a copy from the AAC library.

Hey Rob, knowing how much you like climbing pRon I just can't help myself...

UberBabs on Power Dome

ksolem photo

Herb Laeger slabbin’ on Trapper Dome

ksolem photo


Rachel McCollum watches as Kris Solem drills from a hook on Gold Standard

Jan McCollum Photo



The FA of Seamstress, 1988

photo by Julie Lazar

Carson Kodas Arete

Guy Keesee photo

Herb Laeger getting psyched

Ksolem photo

From the top of Best In The West

Ksolem photo

Esto Power

Guy Keesee photo

Hitting the jug on Smiladon


A lone fisherman calls it a day. Courtright Reservoir, July 2006. Photo by Kris Solem.


By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus (fa solem/laeger 8-1989)

from a photo by Guy Keesee

(I love that place...)

Kris,
Did you take any pics of the climbing on Best of the West?

IN looking at that phototopo of By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus, it's really impressive that it went all free. (Or am I mistaken? Don't have my guide handy.) As always, quite an accomplishment.

Someday I've gotta get back up there. I've only piddled around on Marmot and Trapper.