Folks,

I am thinking about a winter attempt on Mt. Rainier in late December and wonder what you might think about the feasibility of this adventure in terms of avalanche risks, unstable weather conditions and high winds. I was on Rainier in March when I developed a fever after climbing for 6.5-7.0 hours with heavy loads to camp Muir. Next morning, I tried to continue but my fatigue turned me back.

I would appreciate any insights on December conditions on Rainier and advice on the best avalanche-safe (if any) and crevasse-visible (if any) winter routes. Also, does anybody know how I can get historical weather data for Dec 2008 and Dec 2009 from this source - http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/ra ... eport.html?

Thank you,
Nick

Traveling from Chicago to attempt Rainier in December is just not a good idea. Avalanches, bad weather, and high winds are all supremely possible, if not likely. And if it takes 6.5 -7 hours to hike to camp Muir you really, really need to get into better shape.

Thanks for prompt response, ExcitibleBoy. It took me so long last time because I got into white-out and ran out of water with 40 pounds on my back and pretty deep snow on lower slopes.

Rainier in the winter eh?

I went last year, during February, and it was a total test of physical and mental strength combined with extraordinary luck with the weather. It is feasible, I spoke with a group that managed to summit on Christmas last year- but it is highly unlikely.

Be prepared for deep, deep snow and a bit of routefinding just to make it to Camp Muir. The standard winter route is Gibralter Ledges (though there are a few other "safe" routes) because of its relative safety from objective hazards. Regardless, the final 60 degree chute to reach 13,200 (where the angle lessens) proves a serious danger to would-be summitters. The worst part is, you don't know until you're looking at it head-on, how safe it's going to be.

Be prepared for freezing, and I mean FREEZING temperatures. It was below zero for the majority of the time I was on the mountain then.

It's not impossible though, just highly unlikely and improbable that you'll even leave the lodge to start up the mountain. It's a gamble for sure, but very rewarding just to get out there when it's not a zoo on Rainier. Plus, you need not a tent, as I can guarantee the Muir Hut will be free of people!

Oh yeah, and bring chains when traveling through the park!!!



We did not summit that day.

AlpineAffinity,

Thank you very much for this great description! Wow, what a perfect day you had in February!

When you reached the chute, was the snow uphill soft or solid? Is there any way to rent the chains near the entrance to the park?

Nick

Never attempted it in winter, but this comes from the Park's climbing rangers:

WINTER CLIMBING
Winter storms on Mount Rainier are frequent and severe, with high winds, deep snow, and extremely poor visibility. Winter conditions generally exist from mid-September to mid-May. All parties attempting a winter ascent should be experienced in winter mountaineering, avalanche forecasting and rescue, and be familiar with the intended routes of ascent and descent. The maximum party size for winter climbing is 12. A party size of at least 4 is recommended.

I don't know if I'd recommend it, especially if you haven't done it in the summer. Maybe, though if you're very experienced and you go with someone very experienced and very familiar with whatever route you choose to take. Whatever you do, though, be extremely careful and don't get cocky.

Sorry, but why not WAIT until next year? You're still young, so what do you gotta lose by waiting ???

I see your point. But what attracts me in winter Rainier is no crowds/no trails. Plus, tougher conditions would allow me to further enhance my endurance and climbing skills. In summer time, it would be a very different experience. I tried it once in March (which is a winter season) and liked it so much that I want to repeat it if weather allows. I will definitely turn back if the risks again outweigh the rewards. So, does anybody know how to extract the 2008/09 historicals from this web site - http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/ra ... eport.html?

Sanders,

The chute was soft and dangerous. The unprotectable traverse to get to it was extremely treacherous as well.

Man, that mountain creates some serious weather. I'd say, if you're coming from Chicago, don't want to deal with crowds and are bent on climbing the big 'R', I'd suggest the Kautz Glacier Route sometime in the spring/summer. When I did it in July this year, I found solitude and challenge all wrapped in a beautiful route. I highly recommend it to anybody.


Another shameless picture plug

Two Words.....La Nina.....lots of snow and storms in this winters weather patterns...last winter was an el Nino year, and it seemed like a drought [until March]. Your attempt should be predicated on objectives, if you want a challenge, and feel confident traveling in extreme avalanche terrain [just getting to Muir has huge slide potentials and terrain traps], in extreme weather [likely well below zero], and are not hell bent to charge dumbly and blindly up when all signs point to staying put or going down, then a winter attempt can be a very rewarding experience. I have made 3 winter attempts, all of them were great experiences, but none of them even made it to Camp Muir, so keep your goals flexible, be super avy aware, and have fun! Talk to Mike Gauthier prior to finalizing your plans, he can tell you a lot more about the snow pack and route conditions than the web site you are trying to open!

Make sure you have very solid partners, minimum group size should be 3, and better if its 4! Oh yeah, your pack is going to weigh more than 40 lbs for this one! HAH!

Of course it will be your choice. Most of us choose to live or die, depending on the decisions we make and how lucky we are.

Best of luck to you. I think you already know that the odds will be against you, but we never know unless we try..

If you have to ask...

Sanders,

I understand your motivation for a winter ascent of Rainier. If you really want to give the Big R a go in the suck fest that will be this winter season here are my suggestions:

Forget December. December weather is very unsettled (read: miserable). Also, during winter the prevailing winds are from the SW. What does that mean? Well, on the Gibralter Ledges route that means you will get the full brunt of the wind from Paradise all the way to the summit. Furthermore, the wind scours the snow off of the top of the mountain leaving very thinly bridged crevasses above the chute at ~12,500. The wind also creates sastrugi which is remarkably effective at hiding these monster crevasses.

Speaking of Gib Ledges, it is a great winter route. I have done it three times, twice in winter, once in early spring. The chute that someone mentioned is really not any steeper than 40 degrees. The ledges themselves, while not technically difficult, are very exposed, difficult to protect, and the route finding is a tiny bit tricky. I would suggest not roping up from Muir all the way to the top of the chute. You will move faster and unless you bring a lot of big pitons it will be impossible to protect the ledges anyway.

Locals know that every winter a high pressure system arrives right around the President's Day weekend. Sometimes for a few days, other years for a couple of weeks. By late February the winds have changed enough to allow snow to be deposited effectively bridging the monster crevasses on the upper mountain. Therefore, if it fits your schedule plan a trip for the weeks before and after the President's Day weekend and you may get your weather window.

So you are not spending two weeks crying in your beer at the local watering hole waiting for good weather make alternate plans. Do you ski? If so, bring skis and enjoy back country skiing if the avi conditions allow or at one of the many small ski resorts like Crystal Mountain or Steven's Pass if the avi conditions are bad. You will want to ski the approach to Muir anyway. If you don't ski then at least bring snow shoes. Mount Rainier can be getting fully nuked by weather while other areas in the Cascades are enjoying reasonable conditions. Mountains on the eastside of the crest have a better chance of good weather and offer long approaches, solitude, a large variety of big routes from very hard ice/mixed climbing to more casual snow climbs and everything in between.

Look at Dragontail Peak, Colchuck Peak, Argonaut Peak, and Mt Stuart. Do you ice climb? If so there are a lot of great technical winter mixed routes you can do. Don't ice climb? You can still bag all of these summits via really fun and interesting routes. In my experience, climbing one of the North Face routes on Dragontail in winter is more physically and technically demanding than Gib Ledges in winter. Plus you don't have to pay the Mt Rainier Park entrance fee or the climbers fee. That saves like $40.00.

Best of luck,

EB

JJBrunner wrote:If you have to ask...

People who post this psuedo-elitist garbage can shove it. The forums should be a safe place to post any (well, okay most...) questions without catching uncalled for flak from people who aren't that impressive themselves. Sorry to hijack the thread, but for all you Mark Twight wannabes out there, I've nothing but disdain for you.

My two cents.