need advice for Dec. climb

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
absinthe52

 
Posts: 119
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:24 am
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

need advice for Dec. climb

by absinthe52 » Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:35 pm

I will be in Boulder mid December through NYE. I am looking for ideas of routes/mountains to climb which involve conditions likely to be found on Mt. Shasta or Hood. I am planning a trip out there in the spring and would like some good practice. Currently, looking at Evans, Longs, Grays, and Torreys. Anyone know which mountain/routes are best for winter climbing with crampons and ice axe? Possibly some steeps where tying off is needed. Thanks for your help!
Matt

User Avatar
mtngrl

 
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:55 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by mtngrl » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:24 pm

You might try http://www.14ers.com/

User Avatar
absinthe52

 
Posts: 119
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:24 am
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

by absinthe52 » Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:48 pm

Thanks, I have, just tapping all the resources...

User Avatar
fossana

 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 9:31 pm
Thanked: 41 times in 32 posts

by fossana » Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:59 pm

One of my favorite routes for snowy conditions:
http://www.summitpost.org/route/190161/ ... irect.html

It goes without saying in CO, check the avi conditions before you go.

User Avatar
brenta

 
Posts: 1978
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2004 1:43 am
Thanked: 20 times in 16 posts

by brenta » Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:57 am

Many will tell you how different Colorado's winter snowpack is from the one you'll find on the West Coast in spring. Besides, if you come to Colorado to practice glacier travel, chances are you'll be disappointed. Having said that, there's plenty of worthy winter mountaineering objectives that will allow you to practice with crampons and axes.

As already mentioned, make sure you check conditions regularly for some time before your ascent. The CAIC is a very useful resource. Eli Helmuth's Climbing Life often has up-to-date condition reports.

It may well be that you already know all of the above. Not knowing you, I'd rather err on the side of caution.

The safest routes in Colorado's winter tend to be ridges (like the aforementioned Bancroft Ridge). Kelso Ridge on Torreys would be a good one, but you have to pay attention to slides from Kelso Mountain on the approach. An alternative is to climb Torreys from Loveland Pass, going over Grizzly Peak. Easy approach, and relatively safe.

Another nice ridge is Villa Ridge to Drift Peak. It is reasonably safe, but not immune from avalanches.

In RMNP, some south facing couloirs may be in conditions in December. For instance, Martha Couloir on Mount Lady Washington. Careful, though, because the approach crosses a rather dangerous slope. Once again, check conditions. Most people rope up for Martha, while most people do not carry a rope on the climbs I mentioned previously. Longs Peak's North Face, Flying Dutchman, Dragon's Tail and Dragon's Tooth may be in, but they may also be avalanche traps. The same applies to Dreamweaver, where this year two climbers have already been injured by an avalanche. (Fortunately, not seriously.)

On the mellower side, there's Andrew's Glacier, and Storm Peak. This list is far from exhaustive, but hopefully others will add to it.


Return to Colorado

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron