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Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

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Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

Postby Das Foultier » Wed Feb 08, 2006 1:00 pm

Does anyone have experience with, or advice concerning aluminum crampons on the glacier? My wife (130lbs.) has a pair of Grivel aluminum 12 points. They have served well on Colorado spring snow climbs, and she like the idea of the lower weight.
Reading trip reports on Orizaba in late Feb we see a wide range of beta on the ice conditions. We plan to summit on Feb 16th. "Si Dios quiere"
Thanks
Martin
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Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

Postby tjbst47 » Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:17 pm

When I was there in November, we put on crampons before the glacier because it was icy at the time, so we used them on rock also. Aluminum crampons are not good on rock. I wouldn't recommend them.
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Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

Postby gobriango » Wed Feb 08, 2006 10:52 pm

I would have liked them when i was there. I would bring them if i had them. Even if it's icey your going to have steps to walk in all the way to the summit ridge.
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Re: Pico de Orizaba equipment ?

Postby Haliku » Wed Mar 08, 2006 2:38 am

tjbst47 wrote:When I was there in November, we put on crampons before the glacier because it was icy at the time, so we used them on rock also. Aluminum crampons are not good on rock. I wouldn't recommend them.


I agree. The rock approach won't work with them and the ice can be very solid. People have been blown off the mountain before so don't take the chance. Cheers!
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Postby Muddeer » Wed Mar 08, 2006 3:31 am

i used stubai (all aluminium) and had no problem. but it was in early october, so can't say how they would do in icy months.

but then i have a friend who summited with NO crampons, in april no less....
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Postby chris615 » Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:19 pm

I used the climb high neve crampons from ems this February. i'm pretty sure there steel, too heavy to be aluminum. I put them on just before the Labyrith and I walked around some rock and sand. I'm pretty sure you can rent crampons from hotal Gerar but they are pretty old.

http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_deta ... 1845080435
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