Hi all,

I'm after some advice from anyone who knows the Ecrns well. I've been out there to climb twice now but this years trip is either cancelled or I'm going alone. Previous trips involved poor weather, bad conditions and no summits but good experience.

I'm thinking of hiking from la Grave / pied a col up to the source of the Romanche, fork right up the valley to the hut (forget the name here, but it's the next hut directly N of the adele planchard hut, in the neighbouring valley) and then crossing the col du clot des cavales into the valley leading down to la berade. The col has fixed cables on one side and a steepish snow slope below, but no dangerously crevassed areas to cross on either side.

So, assuming i can judge snow / weather conditions and have no illusions of solo climbing ability (if i can't scramble down what i have to go up or condition change would make it a trap, i would just go back as it's obviously not terrain for a lone traveller!), and have a 30m safety rope / harness plus slings etc, is the col du clot des cavales a realistic aim?

Has anyone crossed this col in recent years who has first hand experienc, if so would you recommend this or an easier crossing in another valley (looking at map and guide book, this one appears safest)?

Thanks

James

Hi James,

did the col in the (very hot) summer of 2003. The major problem should be rockfall on the Berarde side, acces from the Romanche was simple (moraine + moderate snowfield + very short and easy rock section). So turning around from the Col should not be a problem.

Further down from the pass to La Berarde there was no path or cairn or whatever, as the track before had led over snow which was gone in that summer. The last step down into the valley was steep, but a simple scramble.

[edit:] Some pictures...


Ascent on the Romanche side, Col is marked.

Steepest part in descent, right below the Col. Note, usually this should be a snow couloir, don't know what it is like nowadays...

Same view from distance further below.

Last steep section before the valley ground, steepness comes out a little exaggerated

HTH, Martin

Thanks Martin - all really useful.

I'll post a few after I get back, if I go for it!

Cheers