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Middle Palisade conditions

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Middle Palisade conditions

Postby peteh » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:32 am


Does anyone have any current information on the conditions on Middle Palisade via the NE face? I'm thinking of heading up there next weekend, and I'm wondering:
a) whether it's currently necessary to cross the Middle Pal glacier to get to the route?
b) the glacier conditions -- snow or ice, bergschrund, etc.?

Basically, can I leave the axe and crampons in the car?


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Postby piotrowski » Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:01 am

http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/Whats-New ... 3124_BhEdD

The 'schrund crossing on 08/29/09.

We didn't bother carrying any gear.
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Middle palisade conditions

Postby peterh » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:58 am

Thanks for the information about the conditions. We had a lot of fun climbing Middle Pal yesterday.

The glacier is heavily suncupped which made climbing easy; however the bergschrund has opened up to about a foot wide. There was a snow bridge which made access to the class 2 ledge easy, but it might collapse soon making the access a bit harder. Good route, though!
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