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Elbrus in September, from the North?

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Elbrus in September, from the North?

Postby Quadaxial » Fri Aug 19, 2011 2:13 am

Hi,

I am toying with the idea of heading to Russia next month to have a go at Elbrus via the north route. Does anyone have good info on what the conditions are likely to be like or, specifically what they are likely to be given how the current season is (e.g., unusually wet or dry)? Also, what is the crevasse situation like on that side? I've heard that there are very few and they are quite easy to spot, so that solo climbing is fairly doable.

I am currently communicating with Pilgrim tours regarding logistics, however, I would prefer to climb unguided.

Any information or advice you can provide is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason
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Re: Elbrus in September, from the North?

Postby MountainHikerCO » Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:21 am

I did Elbrus from the North in June I didn’t see any obvious crevasses on route, but there were a few spots with ripples I wondered about. However if one were to get off route in a storm there are certainly areas that can swallow you up - especially below the saddle. I’m not sure how much risk it would be to go un-roped. Almost everyone traveled roped, but I did see a few traveling un-roped.

Here is my trip report. I would expect some of the snow covered areas in my pictures to be melted. I’m curious as to how much.
http://www.summitpost.org/elbrus-north-route/726384
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Re: Elbrus in September, from the North?

Postby Yury » Sat Aug 20, 2011 3:02 am

Jason,

Early September has about the same weather as August.
Likelihood of a significant snowfall is much higher in late September.

As a result you would get about the same chances to succeed in early September as in August.
Late September is a less favorable lottery.

For current conditions you may want to monitor the following discussion (using Google Translate):
http://forum.mountain.ru/new2/index.php?showtopic=5372&st=240

You may also post your questions there (in case you can manage registration with the help of the same Google Translate).

Guide companiees which were mentioned by MountainHikerCO are also a good source of updated information.
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