by ExcitableBoy » Sun Apr 08, 2012 2:00 am
It was difficult finding experienced partners to climb with when I first started. I found a guy with equal inexperience and and we taught each other the ropes. First top roping at the local crags, then summitting Mt Baker. Eventually I establlished a 'resume' and found it easy to find like minded partners who were eager to rope up with me.
I found it quite irritating when folks found out I used to guide would ask me to take them up Rainier. I would insist upon a regimented training program before stepping foot on the mountain, which they would usually 'be too busy' for. I took the position if these folks who were looking for a free $800 guided trip were unwilling to spend a few afternoons and weekends learning enough skills so they don't get me killed, well they weren't worth wasting my time on. Some newer climbers I invested time in became solid, reliable, and trusted partners with whom I shared many memorable climbs. One guy I taught even made it to the cover of Climbing magazine.
I guess what I am saying, is find a mentor willing to do their part, and go out of your way to do your part. Make it worth your mentor's while. Learn as much as you can by reading Freedom of the Hills, practice Prusiking in a tree in your backyard, learn all the knots, and the theory behind it all. This will go far towards fostering a good mentor/mentee relationship. And offer to drive, pay for gas, after climb beers etc. I think the best folks to look for are 'over the hill climbers', those climbers who are past their sturm and drang years, those who have huge amounts of experience and little left to prove. These folks are usually up for a casual climb and willing to take a newbie out since all the young tigers are out after the hard routes.
Cascadeclimbers.com is a great place to find partners in the PNW. The vast majority of my partners over the last 10 years I have met through that website.
Best of luck
EB