Curious about lessons leanred in shitty, idiot partners. I had one, luckily it was a rather minimally technical traverse for an over-night trip. I decided to let a friend of mine join in on the west side of Middle Sister. What a joke. I knew he was over-ambitions but didn't expect he'd completely disregard my judgement, plan, logic and precautions. He even invited his bud, wow.
Short story highlights. I was flat out arguing that we were not going up this steep 300' slope the night before (around 6700 ft, Camp Scott was it?). He played some passive BS and refused to talk for a bit, wandered in and out all night keeping Alex up most of the time, I had my own tent so I was lucky. Summit day he went ahead off on his own direction. We met at the top, luckily, then did his own thing on the way down after I specifically warned him against. Alex and I (3 of us total, they aren't on here) got back to camp expecting him to follow a half hour after based off last seeing him around 8k. An hour after with no show I grabbed my axe, helmet and pole and went looking. Also found that the 300' steeper snow slope (shortest way to the top of the plateau out of camp) had a fucking light stream running under it, that he failed to mention (it's totally awesome, we need to climb it!). Shortly after yelling his name, hear him, repeat several times, I spot him a little over a half mile from camp, over a few gulleys and the plateau that impaired visibility. Turns out he took a spill on the way down, cut himself somewhere unimportant (he didn't know where apparently) and screwed up his ankle. And was lost. Said he was about to go back uphill to our last tracks (he was about 1k ft low from them). Good thing he didn't because they wouldn't have been tracable from the warm sun. So we had to deal with him limping back to my truck for another 4-5 miles. Although he didn't ask, I gave him my poles and we took a little of his shit hanging off his pack to lighten his load so we could get back sooner. I dont know exactly what happened, he was probably fucking around, glissading with crampons on or something that I already advised against on multiple occasions.
Had complete disregard for safety in almost every respect. I am embarassed to say I took this guy out there, completely. I'm having little to nothing to do with this guy anymore. Even though he invited Alex without my permission, I was glad Alex came. I dont even want to post photo's because of how I felt the trip went overall. I have to say, though, I did learn a whole fuckload about having good parteners, even if it is only more of a traverse than a climb. Certainely the trip I least proud of.
Anyone have any other like experiences?