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Scarpa 6000?

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Scarpa 6000?

Postby Kai » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:30 pm

Anyone out there using the Scarpa 6000?

I read Dane's review and all the comments on the Cold Thistle blog.

I was wondering if anyone else had any real world experience with these boots.

I've got Spantiks, but I hate the lacing system (constantly breaking laces) and I can't seem to get the heel lift out of them.

I'm looking for something a little lighter, a little more sensitive, and a little easier to walk in than my Spantiks.

Will likely use them for winter ice and alpine in Canada and the lower 48, spring in Alaska (not Denali) and maybe Rainier in May/June.

Can the liners on the Scarpa 6000's be baked? Fit on these seems a little bit tight in the toe-box (but pretty good everywhere else) and I'm wondering of baking with a toe-cap would help.

I wear a 44 and 44.5 in other Scarpa boots (with a medium/thick sock.) The 44's in the 6000 are a snug fit (with a thin sock) Big toe on right foot feels squeezed a bit. Have ordered a pair of 45's for comparison.

Dane said he sized up a full size in the 6000's. Anyone else have similar fit experience?

Dane, (and anyone else who has these) How's the fit working out long term? Are they packing out a lot?

Anything else I should know about these boots?
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby Dane1 » Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:48 pm

>I can't seem to get the heel lift out of them.
Have you baked the Spantik liners? 6000 is going to be worse if my experience is any indication

>I'm looking for something a little lighter, a little more sensitive, and a little easier to walk in than my Spantiks.
sounds like the 6000

>Can the liners on the Scarpa 6000's be baked?
No but you can switch liners..I'm using a Baruntse liner in mine
Everyone else seems happy with the factory liners

>Dane said he sized up a full size in the 6000's. Anyone else have similar fit experience?
I went back to a 45 from the 46 simply because of the smaller over all volume of the 45. But fitting the inner boot and not bumping my toes was a real pain. New recap of the best doubles (Oly Mons, Spantik, 6000 and Baruntse coming up soon on the blog)

I'd also like to hear other's experiences on the 6000. It has quickly become very popular in Europe.
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby Kai » Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:04 pm

Some observations on fit:

I have a lot of Scarpa boots. Typically, I wear a size 44 on my left foot, and a size 44.5 on my right foot. (Yes, I buy two pair, which makes boots twice as expensive for me compared with anyone else.)

The size 44 of the Phantom 6000 was too small for either of my feet. Even with very thin socks, both feet felt squeezed, and the toes on the right foot were smacking into the front and sides of the toe box.

I sized up to a size 45. With a medium/thick sock, the right foot is pretty close to perfect. The left foot is comfortable, but has just a bit of heel lift. I am pretty sure I can tweak the fit a bit with some ski boot fitting heel stick-on thingies.

These boots are the most comfortable double boots I've ever had on my feet. Honestly, they feel like a single boot. (This is just an initial impression, wearing them around my office, but so far, I'm optimistic.)
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby Kai » Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:52 pm

I can't believe how really light these are. I need to go out and use them and see if they are as comfortable in use as they are stomping around my house. Too bad Winter kind of missed me here and it's t-shirt weather now.

The Scarpa Phantom 6000 boots weigh 82.2 ounces with stock insoles (5 pounds, 2.2 ounces) Superfeet insoles would add a couple of ounces to that, but so far, they don't feel like they need aftermarket insoles.

Some other boots for comparison. (All of these are actual boots that fit my feet, as opposed to manufacturer's stated weights.)

Single Boots

Scarpa Charmoz Gtx boots 56 (3lbs. 8 oz)
Sportiva Baltoro boots 57.4 (3lbs, 9.4 ounces)
Scarpa Freney boots (blue suede shoes) 78.9 (4 lbs, 14.9 oz)
Aku Spider Kevlar boots 80.5 (5lbs 0.5oz)
Raichle Montblanc boots 100.2 (6 pounds, 4.2 oz)
Scarpa Assault boots 101 (6lbs 5oz)

Double Boots

Scarpa Alpha boots 73.5 (4 lbs, 9.5 oz) (with intuition foam liners)
Scarpa Omega boots 78.4 (4 lbs, 14.4 oz)
Sportiva Spantik boots 97.7 (6 pounds, 1.7 oz)
Scarpa Phantom Guide boots 81.2 (5 pounds, 1.2 oz with custom orthotic insole) (4 pounds, 14 ounces with stock insoles)
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:09 am

FYI, my old Scarpa Invernos with Intuition liners, Superfeet insoles, and La Sportiva insulated supergaitors weigh under 4 lbs, 12 oz. Size 9
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby Kai » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:19 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:FYI, my old Scarpa Invernos with Intuition liners, Superfeet insoles, and La Sportiva insulated supergaitors weigh under 4 lbs, 12 oz. Size 9



Wow. That's very light.

Even lighter than my Scarpa Alphas, which I always thought were Scarpa's lightest plastic boots.

The Sportiva insulated supergaiters must be pretty light too.

I've got 2 pair of insulated super gaiters. They're both pretty heavy.

Savage insulated supergaiters 24.8 ounces
Chouinard insulated supergaiters 18.4 ounces
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby logsden » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:39 am

I've heard comments about the stock liner on the Scarpas being "sticky" on the inside surface...??? As in both a challenge to get the foot in when it's cold and maybe leading to early wear/damage?

Anyone have experience with that?
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Echo, echo,

Postby kevinhansen » Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:00 pm

I just got a pair off of ebay and they even FIT!! Yeee Haaa. I think Dane's review says it all. I will add that I took them to the Cody Ice Fest this year and got blisters 20 minutes from the car. I bought some "Superfeet" insoles and thinner sox and the problem was gone. THESE BOOTS MUST HAVE FOOTBEDS!!! Why did they not come with them? Well that way you can customize them to your foot. So add another $40 to the sticker price or these boots will kill you. I also recomend buying and taking some "mole skin" with you on your first time using any new boot. You're crazy if you think any boot will fit out of the box and work great all day the first day.

Warm. Warm. Warm.
Image

This is Tim Emmett climbing a Water Ice 10 in them. The metal detector is so they could find the bolts they drilled previously. Good enough for me.
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Re: Scarpa 6000?

Postby Dane1 » Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:16 pm

Kevin, good photo and thanks for the plug on the review.

But for the sake of clarity that is Will Gadd not Ttimmy Emmett in the photo. Will's boots in that picture are Phantom Guides not the 6000. It is admittedly really hard to tell with similar color combos but trust me, they are the "Guide" version. Small detail but important none the less.

I'm not a big fan of the inner boot (sticky in and out, foot or boot) but it doesn't seem to bother any one else.

The lightest of the current "modern" dbls. Almost as light and as warm as the original Kolflachs from 1980...but not quite. Still and excellent boot that certainly climbs as well and a good but better than the 30 year old Koflachs :)

Walking? No comparison there!
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