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Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Damien Gildea » Sun Oct 02, 2011 1:40 pm

It was 1935 that Shipton and Dan Bryant went up there, but apparently they only climbed smaller peaks in the area, not Khumbutse and not even Lingtren.

Khumbutse was also climbed again in early 1989 by the Yugoslav team that repeated the west ridge. It was this expedition where several team members were killed in an avalanche on the slopes of Khumbutse, over which they climbed as part of their ascent/descent. Angie Marciniak survived, radioed Artur Hazjer in KTM (who climbed Makalu a few days ago!) and Rob Hall and Gary Ball and others set out from KTM and arrived at the Lho La in time to rescue Marciniak.
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby kamil » Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:41 pm

A little correction - it was actually a Polish team (on the Yugoslav route), the guys who died were Miroslaw Falco-Dasal, Miroslaw Gardzielewski, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Andrzej Otreba and Eugeniusz Chrobak.
Here is a bit more on that story.
Sadly, the only survivor Andrzej Marciniak died in a climbing accident in the Tatras 20 years later in 2009...


Back to the main topic, I've been following this thread cos although I'm not likely to go to the Himalayas in the nearest future, I do some little exploration of possibly unclimbed peaks in Europe - and I agree it's not the best idea to spill the beans and disclose all you know :)
Cheers,
Kamil
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:08 pm

Great thread. Some of these possibly unclimbed peaks look nice. Kind of makes me want to visit the area..
Afghanistan/Tajikistan probably has a lot of quality unclimbed peaks too..
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Bruno » Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:18 pm

kamil wrote:I agree it's not the best idea to spill the beans and disclose all you know :)
Cheers,
Kamil

I think I better have to stop for a while with my questions... :)

Actually for the main High Asian peaks (the ones with significant prominence), the information is easily available on the web in the form of lists/tables (8000ers.com and viewfinderpanoramas.org). The Himalayan Database also provides some good information for peaks in Nepal and at the border.

My interest in this thread was more on peaks for which I had some doubts (e.g. contradictory information available), or for which I couldn't find information. And Damien is really an increadible source of information, something like a Ms. Hawley junior! You sometimes have peaks that are discribed as climbed in the journals, but then digging more you find out that the main summit wasn't reached. Nganglong Kangri in W Tibet would be such example coming to my mind. For such cases I think that a "public" discussion can be useful.

Anyway, I'm still confused about Lingtren: the HD says Shipton and Bryant reached the summit on 10/08/1935 at 11:20am. Could this be another peak?

Cheers,
Bruno
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby kamil » Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:43 pm

Bruno wrote:And Damien is really an increadible source of information, something like a Ms. Hawley junior!

You're all legends here, I could learn a lot from all of yous :)

When it comes to disclosing or not, it all depends on the specific case, if there's any available info already, and how much of it, etc. If it's an obscure range with obscure peaks and I know of a few other parties interested in FA hunting, I'd keep stumm. If there's widely available but contradictory info as you say, that's a different ball game...
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Damien Gildea » Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:46 am

Kamil, thanks for the correction, my bad.

Lingtren? I just re-read my post above and I wrote it a bit misleading. Shipton's bio says they climbed peaks near Lingtren, but doesn't mention climbing Lingtren itself. But I'd always thought they did, but I didn't go into it too much. It does say they went to the col between Lingtren and Pumori, which would lead to the west ridge, which looks like the easiest way up. The N face and NE ridge are fairly steep ice. Note that there is a smaller easier peak to the west called 'Xi Lingtren', as well ;-)

I always assumed Loretan climbed Guangming Peak and Changzheng Peak, as they are the closest to where they would have camped in 1986, but I really don't know. Americans also climbed Changzheng(?) in the 90s.

Bruno, before, you mentioned the name Tseringma. This is a minor peak in the Rolwaling but there was confusion over it with regard to Gauri Sankar and Kang Nachugo. As a result, that was one reason a few people were surprised when Joe Puryear and Dave Gottlieb claimed the FA of KN. Lots of people just assumed it had been climbed - regardless of the Tseringma issue - and I had some idea it was climbed by Japanese. But there seems no record of a previous ascent, so they got it, and good on them because it is a major peak. I had a bit of correspondence with Joe just before he died, first about another big unclimbed peak :-) and then with regard to the Panbuk/SS issue and he was quite worked up about it. We also discussed, with EJ, their ascent on Trakargo, as there were rumours it had been already climbed (illegally) and there was mention of an Italian ascent in an old book. It never got sorted out before he died. There has been quite a bit of unauthorised climbing in the Rolwaling over the years, including a solo attempt on Menlungtse in the early 80s (late 70s?).

There are some peaks, like Tutse / Peak 6 that are officially unclimbed but it's common knowledge that they were climbed at least once over the years by people from Makalu BC. Pethangtse and ChoPolu also had unauthorised ascents (Nils Bohigas 1984).

Because there was so much activity in the Afghan Hindu Kush in the 60s & 70s, there are no major unclimbed peaks there, and plenty of peaks have a couple of routes. What would be cool would be for someone to go repeat the NE face of Koh-e-Bandaka, which is west of the main range. It's the most prominent(?) mountain in the HK and that face was the first big climb for alpine legends Alex McIntyre and Voytek Kurtyka.

In Nepal right now the crazy thing is it is actually cheaper, and less hassle, for a couple of people to go - legally - to an easy unclimbed peak in Mustang or the Damodar than it is for those two people to go to a crowded 'Trekking Peak' like Island Peak or Mera.
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Damien Gildea » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:28 pm

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2011-10-04/t ... he/3207722

Thulagi is one of the highest unclimbed mountains in Nepal, though it is not very prominent, being off a shoulder of Manaslu. It has already had one or two attempts in recent years.
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:45 pm

Damien Gildea wrote:repeat the NE face of Koh-e-Bandaka, which is west of the main range. It's the most prominent(?) mountain in the HK and that face was the first big climb for alpine legends Alex McIntyre and Voytek Kurtyka.


Where can I get more information about this line? Pictures? Tried to research but nothing great comes up. I want to get out to Asia/middle east sometime next year maybe and try something remote and interesting. Probably Kyrgizstan/Kazakhstan area since I speak Russian. Be it something unclimbed or climbed but awesome. Never been to the area so any tips are welcome.
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Damien Gildea » Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:26 pm

Not many pictures around, it was before the days of Flickr ;-)

Try something like this:
http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/cgi-bin ... zoom_and=0
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:36 pm

wowzers the line looks amazing
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Re: Unclimbed peaks (identification / confirmation)

Postby Bruno » Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:20 am

A question about Ngojumba Kang (alternative spelling Ngozumpa Kang, Ngo Jumba Kang, Ngoxumpga Ri, Ngozumba Kang, Ngozumba Ri), located on the ridge between Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang.

Ngojumba Kang has more or less three summits, all of them lacking signifincant prominence. The two highest summits (west and central) are climbed, while Ngojumba Kang III (or east) (7681m) is apparently unclimbed.

My question: does anybody know the exact location of Nogjumba Kang III? The left or the right one on the following picture (taken from the North)(full size here)?

Image

According to that labelled panorama (taken from the South), it would be the closest point to Ngojumpa II, but I still have the doubt whether Ngojumpa Kang III could also be P7610m close to Gyachung Kang.

Thanks for any info!
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