Hey !

i am just curious to know what do you carry on moderate and technical climb on alpine grounds ?

so far in my rack i got:

nuts (1-10)(some double)
hexes (4-9)
tricam (.25-8 )
cams (1,2,3,4)

6 locking biners
12 wiregate biners
1 atc

60m dry rope(10.5mm mammut matterhorn)
slings (3x30cm 2x60cm, 3x120cm, 1x200cm)
5xscreamers
20m 7mm cordelette
5m 6mm cordelette
3 prussiks loop(1 long 2 shorter)
1metolius P.A.S.

6 BD express screws (2x 13cm, 1x16cm, 1x19cm, 2x22cm)
2 ice pitons
6 pitons (2x lost arrow, 2xknifeblade 2x angle)
3 snow picket

what do you think ? too much stuff ? missing something ? post your comments ! I had different advices/opinions around me, wanted to know what you spers think !

Add a Green and Yellow Alien plus #2 & #3 Master Cam to the above.

When Ice is involved, 4-6ea 13 CM 2ea 16 CM Screws.

1ea 22cm & 3-4 24" 6mm Accessory Cord for constructing a V-Thread or two for Raps

Neve, 3-4 24" pickets. But very rarely will I carry em.

That's it...

lelf wrote:Hey !

i am just curious to know what do you carry on moderate and technical climb on alpine grounds ?

so far in my rack i got:

nuts (1-10)(some double)
hexes (4-9)
tricam (.25-8 )
cams (1,2,3,4)

6 locking biners
12 wiregate biners
1 atc

60m dry rope(10.5mm mammut matterhorn)
slings (3x30cm 2x60cm, 3x120cm, 1x200cm)
5xscreamers
20m 7mm cordelette
5m 6mm cordelette
3 prussiks loop(1 long 2 shorter)
1metolius P.A.S.

6 BD express screws (2x 13cm, 1x16cm, 1x19cm, 2x22cm)
2 ice pitons
6 pitons (2x lost arrow, 2xknifeblade 2x angle)
3 snow picket

what do you think ? too much stuff ? missing something ? post your comments ! I had different advices/opinions around me, wanted to know what you spers think !

well, what do you mean moderate and how it relates to your climbing ability? Is that moderate as in 5.10 - 5.12 and is that moderate for you, i.e. well within your abilities?

Either way, for a moderate alpine you carry too much - I would drop the hexes and maybe tricams (just because I don't like tricams:-)

Your rope is too thick. Why some many screamers? For ice? Even for ice (if moderate) that is way too many. Ice pitons? So many pickets?

I would take some small TCUs. For alpine you need to add some webbing for rappels anchors. Either add rappels rings or biners you don't mind leaving. Get more single slings - you can use around horns, on pro fully extended or shortened as alpine draws.

Again, I would assume you don't carry all of this at the same time and rather are trying to put together rock/ice/snow rack for the entire year?

40 #1 knifeblades
10 #2 knifeblades
10 #3 knifeblades
6 short lost arrows

kovarpa wrote:Again, I would assume you don't carry all of this at the same time and rather are trying to put together rock/ice/snow rack for the entire year?

that's fo sure ! i am not bringing everything everywhere ! but i want to be sure to have enough (and the proper) gear for any route that i want to do. alpine routes in the canadian rockies, (grade II to IV, 5.5-5.9), alpine routes in the White mountains, multipitch rock routes in the east (adirondack, gunks, kathadin) 5.8-5.11, ice routes in the east (NY, NH, and Quebec)(WI 2-5)...that's about it...

about the rope...i might buy double ropes 8-9mm or so...advice ?

lelf wrote:about the rope...i might buy double ropes 8-9mm or so...advice ?

Mammut Genesis 8.6 Super Dry Coat 60's.

I have been known to use these as singles on many occasions in the BC.

I also use and highly recommend the Mammut Serenity Super Dry Coat 8.9 60 Single.

I agree on the skinny mammut cords. I'd say you surely have your bases covered there. I'd get at least one more pink tricam too.

The Chief wrote:

lelf wrote:about the rope...i might buy double ropes 8-9mm or so...advice ?

Mammut Genesis 8.6 Super Dry Coat 60's.

I have been known to use these as singles on many occasions in the BC.

Agree with the genesis...for certain routes I use a single strand, and for others both doubles. An excellent light rope that has been very durable so far.

The Chief wrote:
1ea 22cm & 3-4 24" 6mm Accessory Cord for constructing a V-Thread or two for Raps

That's it...

Do you find cord works better than webbing for V-threads? I've only used webbing but I'm an self-confessed ice weenie.

a matterhorn is actually 10,2 and not 10,5. Etiher way its not the lightest rope in the world. Great feel though when weight isnt an issue

JHH60 wrote:

The Chief wrote:
1ea 22cm & 3-4 24" 6mm Accessory Cord for constructing a V-Thread or two for Raps

That's it...

Do you find cord works better than webbing for V-threads? I've only used webbing but I'm an self-confessed ice weenie.

I prefer the 6 or 7mm cord as it is easier and faster to thread.

One must remember that these V-Threads are meant for STATIC (Raps) and NOT SEMI DYNAMIC (TRing) Loads.

Standard 6mm is rated at 8ish Kn's and 7mm is rated at 12ish Kns.

Either way, any V-Thread must be used in STATIC LOAD situ ONLY unless backed up with a minimum of 2 16cm Screws.

Why so many lockers? Otherwise sounds like what I carry.

Here's what I'm taking for North Pal via U-Notch in a few weeks:

Camalots .3-2 (6 Units)
Hexentrics 7-9 (3 Units)
Stoppers 4-13 (10 Units)
TriCams 0.5-2 (4 Units)
Turbo screws 13-22 (4-Units)
6 Mammut "alpine draws" (single length runners)
4 Mammut over-shoulder runners (double length)
1 7MM Cordellete 1 Mtn. Tools Webolette w/lockers
Sterling 8.8 50M dry half-ropes
Grivel Matrix Light Ice Tools
Grivel G12 New-Matic Crampons
Petzl Adjama harness w/Reverso and Tibloc
Petzl Elios helmet

The only difference between this and my multi-pitch rock rack is that I will drop the hexes, add large camalots and double the medium sizes, add small TCUs and instead of racking alpine draws (for passive gear and screws) I will carry more slings over the shoulder with a few extra biners racked on the harness as I will likely place more cams than nuts.

DanielWade wrote:Why so many lockers? Otherwise sounds like what I carry.

Here's what I'm taking for North Pal via U-Notch in a few weeks:

Camalots .3-2 (6 Units)
Hexentrics 7-9 (3 Units)
Stoppers 4-13 (10 Units)
TriCams 0.5-2 (4 Units)
Turbo screws 13-22 (4-Units)
6 Mammut "alpine draws" (single length runners)
4 Mammut over-shoulder runners (double length)
1 7MM Cordellete 1 Mtn. Tools Webolette w/lockers
Sterling 8.8 50M dry half-ropes
Grivel Matrix Light Ice Tools
Grivel G12 New-Matic Crampons
Petzl Adjama harness w/Reverso and Tibloc
Petzl Elios helmet

The only difference between this and my multi-pitch rock rack is that I will drop the hexes, add large camalots and double the medium sizes, add small TCUs and instead of racking alpine draws (for passive gear and screws) I will carry more slings over the shoulder with a few extra biners racked on the harness as I will likely place more cams than nuts.

Why so many pieces of Rock Pro???? It's only two moves of 5.5 in the rock gully. The lower chockstone and the traverse to the high stance which is protected by a fixed pin.

For this route, I only take 8 Stoppers total.... #12(2), 10, 8, BD's and #7(2), 5 & 4 DMM Wallnuts.

And you best take 60's if you plan on using them for the raps in both the Rock gully and the U-Notch proper. Unless you plan on down climbing to get to most of the current established rap stations.

But what do I know. Just been up this route three times since early July this year and upgraded/replaced seven of the rap stations.

Thanks for the advice. I only own 50M doubles so that's why I'm taking them, I would take 60s if I had them. I'm going with 3 friends who were there in July and they seemed to think lots of rock gear was the way to go. They took a lot of screws and wished they had more rock gear. I was thinking the rock gear would be useful in the coulior as well as the rock proper rock pitches. I'll take your advice whole heartedly but I can't buy another rope.

10 Nuts is overkill surely? Especially if you're taking hexes and cams.