Piccadilly Bedretto : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Piccadilly Bedretto - Photo Silvia Mazzani

***Piccadilly Bedretto

Summit altitude: mt. 2621
Climbing length: 400 mt.
Exposure: S
First ascent: Jurg von Kanel – D. Hodel 1991
Starting point: Nufenen Pass road mt. 2095 (parking)
Hut: Capanna Piansecco SAC m. 1980, open in the week-ends

A long good route on excellent rock; after the starting six pitches, on sloping slabs, the climbing way changes, becoming steeper and developing on fine cracks and flakes.

Getting There

From Airolo, a little town at St.Gotthard southern exit, follow the road to Nufenen Pass, going inside the green bucolic Val Bedretto and reaching All’Acqua village. A few kilometres past All’Acqua, at a road's hairpin towards left, leave the car (m. 2095). Parking.

Piccadilly Bedretto report

Abseils

Final pitches - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Starting slabs - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Piccadilly Bedretto report (French scale)

You can climb the route directly from the parking along Nufenen Pass road; otherwise you can spend the night at Capanna Piansecco SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) mt. 1980, available from All’Acqua in 45 minutes.

From the parking a mainly level track leads towards the face; finally the track rises along some steep stones’ slopes towards right, reaching the right side of the face (1,10 hour from the hairpin). To get to the starting point, situated below some red stones, walk along a good legde rising towards left.

L1 - Easy rocks lead to a sloping slab slantways towards left (4c).
L2 - An other slab with a final thin crack (5c).
L3 – Slabs and little corners slantways towards right ( 4b).
L4 – A dihedral crack, then a slab to a little belay (4c).
L5 – A slab with a smooth move, then easier rocks to the belay (6a+, or 5b with 1 p.a.).
L6 – Slabs and little corners to the wide central gully which divides the face in two parts (4b) .
L7 - Cross the gully towards left, reaching a vertical wall. Climb the wall along fine flakes (6a).
L8 – A superb pitch along flakes and cracks to a good stance (5b).
L9 – Another superb pitch; a short steep wall over the stance, then a vertical corner (6a).
L10 – Slantways towards right to the summital ridge (5c).

Descent: abseiling the route