Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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46.33288°N / 9.66016°E |
Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5c+ |
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Number of Pitches:
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5 |
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Grade:
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VI |
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Overview
Piccolo is the one route that goes all the way to the summit of the small Piz dal Päl, 2618m. The Piz dal Päl is situated just to the south of the larger Piz Balzet.Getting There
The Piz dal Päl is a very short 15-20 minute walk north of the Albigna hut and this combined with the short routes makes it an excellent way to spend an afternoon or as a first route to get to grips with the Albigna granite.Follow the path that leads from the Hut to the north and you'll soon find yourself beneath the routes. After abseiling from the top you make your way back down over a grassy slope to the very same path.
Route Description
The first pitch is the crux; a 5c+ granite slab. This first pitch is well bolted so the climbing is quite carefree. For those of who don't enjoy 5c+ slabs there is also the option of making for the first belay via a slightly different route, along the obvious crack just to the left of the slab. Climbing this crag it is even possible to clip some of the bolts of the routes to the right of it.The remaining 4 pitches to the top are bolt-free so be sure to bring a couple of friends, some rocks and some slings to be able to protect them. Three 3c pitches over very easy terrain bring you to the last pitch before the summit which can be climbed in two ways. The first option is to continue straight upwards over the southern face and reach the abseil-belay in a short 5a pitch (bolt at the crux move).
The second way to reach the top is to traverse left (east) across a ledge and climb up to the top on the north-western side of the Piz dal Päl. Take care here as there is some loose rock. This option is graded at 3b.
From the top abseil down to the grassy slopes beneath the route and walk back down to the path which leads to the Albigna hut. 2x50m ropes are advised for the abseil.
Essential Gear
2x50m ropes to allow you to abseil to safety.A small selection of cams, perhaps some nuts.
About 6 quickdraws.
Helmet.
Guidebooks and maps
Map: Swisstopo 1:25000 #1296 'Sciora'.Guidebook: Jorg von Kanel, Schweiz Plaisir Süd (Edition Filidor 2003).