Punta Fanes Sud (2.980 mtrs) is a 2nd highest summit of Fanes group, which is situated north of Grande Lagazuoi and Falzarego Pass. The summit can be reached by the remarkable Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli over the SW face and first tower on the Cresta di Fanes. This is a very good quality route, perfectly secured and technically hard in places.

Fanes group and Lagazuoi grande with Punta Fanes Sud in the center

A part of Fanes group with Punta Fanes Sud summit on the right

Approach

Punta Fanes Sud from Bivacco della Chiesa

View of Punta Fanes Sud from south-east of Forcella Grande

The approach to the route is from historical Falzarego Pass by the cable car, which will take you to Lagazuoi refuge. From there descend with route No. 20 to Forcella Lagazuoi and continue along the west side of Lagazuoi Grande range. Then take route No. 20b at the signposted junction which will lead you the bottom of the rock face. The route now ascends towards Forcella Grande and levelled plateau with Bivacco della Chiesa where ferrata starts.

Ferrata Tomaselli facts

Sketch of the Tomaselli route

Maximum height: 2.980 mtrs

Total ascent: 500 mtrs
Total ferrata ascent: 300 mtrs
Total ferrata descent: 300 mtrs
Total descent: 1000 mtrs

Grade:

Italian grading: 5
French grading: D+
Fletcher/Smith grading: 5C

Ascent/descent time:

Cable car station (Lagazuoi refuge) - Bivacco della Chiesa: 1-1,5 hours
Bivacco della Chiesa - Punta Fanes Sud summit: 1,5-2 hours

Punta Fanes Sud summit - Forcela dei Quaire: 1 hour
Forcela dei Quaire - Falzarego Pass: 1,5-2 hours

Route Description

Climbers on famous traverse called 'the nose' at the start of ferrata Cesco Tomaselli

Climbing ferrata Tomaselli

Best way for this route is to make clockwise circuit from the Bivacco della Chiesa and to end your day with a walk down to Falzarego pass, or you can ascent back to Lagazuoi refuge and use the cable car for return. The ferrata starts with famous traverse leftwards called 'the nose', which is immediately strenuous and exposed. It continues up over vertical exposed walls towards central section of the face. At this part you will see another route going left to Cima Scotoni with Alta Via Fanis route. We follow wire rope that goes in the right direction towards a terrace, which is a good place to take a break. From there you have to climb a series of steep walls until you reach the crest, called 'a cheval'. The final obstacle is very exposed, vertical slab which lead to the summit of Punta Fanes Sud.

Descending route from the summit goes over the NE face and it is fixed with cables from the beginning. It is initially steep and well protected, but easier than the ascent at the grade of 3/3C/AD. On this route there are also some quite difficult passages, among which the hardest passage is a short squarecut chimney. Ferrata finishes when you reach the end of the cable at Forcella dei Quaire. Now route continues down over the scree slopes towards Forcella Grasser and further more to Forcella Travenanzes (route No. 20b). From there you have to descend final part of the returning route No. 402 to Falzarego pass.