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ridge Taillon-Gabietos

ridge Taillon-Gabietos

ridge Taillon-Gabietos

Page Type: Route

Location: Huesca / Hautes Pyrénées, France/Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.69289°N / 0.06525°W

Object Title: ridge Taillon-Gabietos

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: 5.3 (YDS)

Difficulty: P.D.inf.

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Rafa Bartolome

Created/Edited: Aug 5, 2008 / Aug 5, 2008

Object ID: 428539

Hits: 2165 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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One of the most frequented routes to climb the peaks of Gabieto is the access from the summit of Taillon (3144m). Many mountaineers, not the hikers, want to climb the two most important peaks of this zone in the same day and for this reason they descent to the col between both peaks but it's not the easiest route because is a little exposed with a descent of I+ or II- in an area with a lot of free stones (P.D.inf.).

Getting There

See the main page to access to the trailheads in Col de Tentes (France) and San Nicolás de Bujaruelo (Spain) and the routes to Taillon to access to its summit:

Route Description

Routes to Gabietos

On the summit of Taillon we'll follow the ridge lightly to left (South-West) to a pre-summit of 3051m. On this summit we'll search to left the repises to descent among the stones. Turning to right we'll descent the most hardest part (I+) to exit to the great West face with the long descent among the stones following some cairns to col of Gabieto (2938m). At the col of Gabietos we'll follow the narrow ridge (I or I+, generally with the posibility of border the ridge across a few of narrow repises on left side of the ridge). Finally we'll can attach the first summit across a very easy path with a lot of small stones to appear on left side of the summit. A very easy climb (F) bring us to the nice summit of Gabieto Oriental (East, 3031m) with spectacullar view of Taillon and the main summit.
To reach the main summit the best option is a little descent across the same path of ascension turning after 20 meters to right. If we'll go across the ridge we'll find a section of P.D.inf (II) to descent. Under the ridge we'll search some repises to arrive to the bottom of main peak and across a path we'll reach the final cone. The access to the summit of Gabieto Occidental (West, 3034m) is across a repise on North side (exposed but easy, F).

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice-axe early on the season (may-june), but it's not a good idea the descent of S.W. face of Taillon if it present snow.

External Links

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Brèche de RolandCirque de Gavarnie from Soum des SalettesTaillon and Collado Blanco