Ridge traverse from Saun

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.93851°N / 11.50166°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Hike and Scramble
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

On the ridge right in front of RiedspitzeRiedspitze as seen from the Ridge traverse

The ridge traverse, which starts at the southernmost mountain of the Tux main ridge, Saun / Monte Sommo (2085m), is by far the most impressive of the routes to Weißspitze. It follows the ridge wherever it is possible but since the quality of the rock is so poor it often has to make detours by as much as 200m. On this ridge you climb two further summits, Riedspitze / Cima Novale (2480m) and Bairnockspitze / Punta del Dosso (2623m). Both are but minor bumps on the ridge and you will find it tough to tell when you reached their tops.

The topmost part of the route strictly follows the ridge until it meets the Weißspitze summit block. This part of the route is exposed with sharp drops on the eastern side of the ridge. Finally to climb the summit block you have to scramble up a chimney until you reach the west ridge right below the summit cross.

Getting There

Looking across Pfitscher Tal towards the Pfunderer Berge GroupLooking across the Pfitsch Valley from Riedspitze

Follow the Getting There information on the main page. Though the route to Saun starts at Braunhof, its low elevation (a mere 1345m) makes the climb to Weißspitze a major undertaking. Rather start from Brandner Alm (1818m), from where a slope traversing path leads up to Saun. You can decide on the Weißspitze summit which descent route to take - the way you came up or the Riedbergalm route, which is more direct.

Route Description

Looking across the ridge to Saun from the Weißspitze summitThe Ridge between Weißspitze and Saun as seen from the summit

  • General data
      - Start altitude: 1818m (Brandner Alm) / 1345m (Braunhof)
      - Summit altitude: 2714m
      - Prevailing exposure: E
      - Type: 3 h / 5h over marked paths
      - Protection: None
  • Effort: 1000m / 1500m elevation gain
  • Power: 1 / 2 - easy from Brandner Alm, tough from Braunhof
  • Psyche: 2 - a bit ticklish, whenever you get near the landslide prone ridge
  • Orientation: 2 / 1 - a bit tricky from Brandner Alm, easy from Braunhof

    From Braunhof
    Follow the road up for several meters, then turn on a path which leads up directly to Saun, crossing dense forests.

    From Brandner Alm
    Right behind the Alm buildings there is a path which heads up the mountain to the right (east). It crosses a forests, then turns southward. At about 2000m of elevation you come across the remains of a cabin, the path gets narrower and you have to fight your way through the undergrowth. Once outside the bushes the remainder of the trail to Saun is evident.

    Ridge Traverse
    From Saun the further ascent route always stays on the western side of the ridge. Once you have an opportunity to see the other side you''ll know why: the whole mountain is a piece of rubble and on the eastern side of the ridge it has frequently broken off with shere drops into PPfitsch Valley underneath.

    The first summit, Ridspitze is passed on its western side as well. Right afterwards the trail joins the ridge and follows it to Bairnockspitze. From there it leads across some minor and slightly overhanging summits towards the summit block of Weißspitze. There you need to climb a steep step in the south face, which leads up to the west ridge, where it joins the normal western route from Riedbergalm. A few steps take you to the summit cross, a few further (exposed) steps take you to the real summit itself.

    Essential Gear

    Hiking gear is sufficient.

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  • Parents 

    Parents

    Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.