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Rochefort ridge
Route

Rochefort ridge

 
Rochefort ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute-Savoie/Aosta (Mont Blanc), France/Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.86380°N / 6.96090°E

Object Title: Rochefort ridge

Route Type: Mixed snow/ice rock,

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD, rock part II

Route Quality: 
 - 14 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gui Lemmens

Created/Edited: Mar 22, 2001 / Mar 22, 2001

Object ID: 155424

Hits: 10561 

Page Score: 75.13%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach


starting point rifugio Torino

Route Description


Von der Hütte hinauf zum Col de Géant ( 3365m ! spalten ) und in NO Richtung am Felssporn der Aiguilles Marbrées vorbei in das weite Firnbekken beim Col de Rochefort. An diesem Col vorbei nd in gleichen Richtung hinauf zum schrofigen Sockel des markanten Dent du Géant. Zuerst etwas rechts von einem kleinen Firncouloir an den leichten Felsen empor zu einem Nebengrat mit einem Gendarmen. Von diesem aus rechtshaltend hinauf zum breiten Hauptgrat. Daran, einen Gendarmen rechts umgehen, zum Frühstückplatz vor der senkrechten Südwand des Dent du Géant ( 2-3std. von der Hütte ). Von dieser nach rechts und nun immer am schmalen Grat zum Zwischengipfel 3933 m. Diesen überschreiten und jenseits steil absteigend und dem scharfen Firngrat weiter folgen zum felsigen Gipfelaufbau der Aiguille de Rochefort. Rechts queren zu einer wenig ausgeprägten Rinne. Darin steil hinauf über etwas brüchigen, grossgriffigen Fels zum Gipfel.

Essential Gear


normal gear for mixed climbs : rope, crampons, ice ace

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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AriRoute Comment

Ari

Hasn't voted

Very impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed. AD, with short sections II and I (on the final rocks to reach the summit). Ascent to the Sella á Manger 550 m (2-3 h). The ridge itself 200m, length 800m. 1½-3h.





From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut).





From Salle á Manger starts the actual Arête. Climb on ridge to middle summit (3933m). On the other side descent steeply on snow and follow shard ridge to the final rocks of Aiguille de Rochefort. Traverse to right to a vague couloir and climb steeply up on somewhat loose rock with big holds (II). The right route might be a bit hard to find. It is also possible to climb directly up from the ridge (II-III).


Posted Feb 13, 2002 11:59 pm
AriRoute Comment

Ari

Hasn't voted

Fotogalerie des AACZ - several very fine pictures of the Rochefort Arête.
Posted Feb 14, 2002 12:16 am

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