Aiguille de Rochefort

Overview

Aiguille de Rochefort above clouds - Photo by allari

Rochefort Ridge	Sunset	Sunrise	View of Grandes Jorasses	Sunrise

The Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m) is an important mountain of the Mont Blanc MASSIF. It is not the highest point of the famous Rochefort Ridge, but the most visited summit.
From the Aiguille de Rochefort, you have a wonderful view around.

The highest summit of the Rochefort crest is the Dôme de Rochefort with its 4015 m. But it is less visited than the Aiguille de Rochefort which is located
about in the middle of the ridge between the Dent du Géant and the Col des Grandes Jorasses. About 50 % of the mountaineers who climb the Aiguille
continue to the Dôme.

The first climb of the Aiguille de Rochefort was on 14. August 1873 by the british climber J. Eccles with his french guides M.-C. and A. Payot. 3 years later,
these 3 persons also climbed the Dôme de Rochefort for the first time. Not before July 1900, 4 mountaineers continued the Rochefort Ridge
in direction of the Dent du Géant. This was the basis of the whole traverse which was undertaken for the first time by Karl Blodig and Max Horten from Bonn
on the 2nd of August 1903.

There are higher summits with more different shapes in the Mont Blanc region, but there exists only one Rochefort Ridge. Although some people think that the
Rochefort Ridge ends at the Aiguille de Rochefort, this is only partly true. Viewed precisely, the end of this ridge is not before the Calotte de Rochefort, 3974 m,
the NE edge pillar of the crest.

But you can leave this summit, unless you want to climb to the Bivacco Canzio at the Col des Grandes Jorasses and to traverse
the Grandes Jorasses the next day.

The Rochefort Ridge is dreamlike. It is as unique as the Bianco Ridge at the Piz Bernina . It is one of the most beautiful and worthwhile tours. Incomparable are
the horizontal passages at the part of the mountain massif together with the very exposed passages at the firn crests which seem to be like knifes, seen from
the Dent du Géant. Very attractive is the whole traverse of the Rochefort Ridge from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grandes Jorasses including the traverse of the
Grandes Jorasses.

The traverse from the Col des Hirondelles to the Col du Géant is difficult and not often climbed. For this route, very much experience is necessary. The other routes,
especially through the NW Face with its seracs, are climbed very scarcely.

There are routes for extreme climbers: for example the 700m high and 70° steep north-west face - a new route of Hermann Bratschko, Karl Schreiner, Emil and Karl Rupilius,
climbed on the 25th of July 1932 in 12 hours. Or the 200m higher south face. On the 16th of July 1935, Francesco Ravelli and Maria de Benedetti from Torino opened a new
direct route through the crumbling rock of this face. The Dôme de Rochefort N Face has been climbed by Angelo Piconi and Luciano Pasi in 3 hard days from the 17th
to the 19th of September 1971: the "Toni Gobbi memory route" in memory of the famous guide from Courmayeur (first winter climb of the Grandes Jorasses Hinrondelles
ridge, Aiguille Noire S Ridge, "Major route" through the Mont Blanc Brenva flank). He died with the age of 65 years 1970 in an avalanche at the Sassopiatto (Plattkofel)
(Dolomites).

• Peaks on the way: Dent du Géant (4013 m) - Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m) - Dôme de Rochefort (4015 m) - Calotte de Rochefort (3974 m)- Pointe Walker (4208 m)
  Photos by andrea.it - Antonio Giani - Rahel Maria Liu

Dent du Géant	Aiguille de Rochefort	Dôme de Rochefort	Calotte de Rochefort	Pointe Walker

Route Overview

AD, II and I, 200 hm, length: 800m, 3 1/2-5 h from Rif. Torino, 1 1/2 h from the beginning of the ridge, as descent 1 h less (Eberlein)

AD, 2 h from the col to the 'dining room'. 1-2h from the 'dining room' to the Aig. de Rochefort, 816 hm (Rébuffat)

III, AD, 4 h from the hut (Laroche/Lelong)


III, AD (Damilano/Perroux)


route from 1972: IV 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)

'Bye Bye Baby: VI 6. 600 m. Seracs (Damilano/Perroux)

Route from 1932: V 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)

Route	Rif. Torino	Start	Below R	On the Ridge	RochefortR	On the summit

PD, 6-7 h to Montenvers (Eberlein)

Classic route: II, AD (Damilano/Perroux)

Over the glacier du mont Mallet: III, AD, 300 m (Damilano/Perroux)

IV, 6-8 h from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grands Jorasses; 6-8 h from the Col des Grands Jorasses to the Pointe Walker.
5-6 h from the Pointe Walker to the Col des Hirondelles, 850 hm, long mixed route of which the second part is very committing (Rébuffat)

From Col des Grandes Jorasses to Calotte de Rochefort: IV D, 5c (Damilano/Perroux)

Getting There

You can come from Les Cosmiques.

You can come from the Rifugio Torino.

In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aiguille du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the South summit. On the firn ridge,
you go down in SE direction of an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW direction below the S Face of the Aiguille du Midi.
Pay attention to crevasses!

You reach the Aiguille du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.

You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/Courmayeur (Italy).

You can reach the hut directly also with
the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix).

Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the Glacier du Géant (3 h):
From the foot of the S Face of the Aiguille du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E Face
of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
You go along this E Face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux.
From here in a few minutes to the Rifugio Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.

From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.

From Geneva (airport) via Annecy (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.

From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin

From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.

From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.

From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.

From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.

Accomodation

The refuge Les Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW ridge of the Aiguille du Midi (Cosmiques ridge).

120 beds

guarded from mid-February to mid-October

phone: ++33(0)450544016

The Rifugio Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.

180 beds

guarded from mid-February to mid-October

General Information

Météo France
Phone: 0033/836680274
Snowinfo: 0033/836 681 020 (only in France)

Chamonix

Meteo Italy

Courmayeur

Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/
Phone: 0033450 532 208

Bureau des Guides in Chamonix
Phone: 0033/450530088

Chamonix

Guide Alpine Courmayeur

Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur

Courmayeur

Phone: 0033/450 53 1298 - 0033/8 36 35 35 35
0033/450530702 (Train station Chamonix)

Ticket shop

Phone: 0033/450 53 0555 - 0033/450 53 0115

Chamonix

Courmayeur
Phone: 00390/165.846658, Fax 00390/165.842347

No permits or fees required, no seasonal closure

Big parking places in Chamonix and Courmayeur near the Cable Car ground station

East Side	West Side	North Side	South Side	Back from Rochefort

Maps&Books

1:25000 no. 3630 OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

1:25000 no. 165107 IGC Monte Bianco

Hartmut Eberlein, Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer, 2000 or 2012, amazon.de (look at the contents Dent du Géant - Grandes Jorasses)

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. amazon.com (look at the contents Rochefort Ridge)

Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996. ISBN 1-898573-03-4. amazon.de or amazon.com (Look at the contents)

Hartmut Eberlein: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. DAV-Gebietsführer. 9th ed. Munich 2000. ISBN 3-7633-2414-3. amazon.de

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998. ISBN 3-7633-7427-2. amazon.de

Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999. amazon.de

Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Editions Ice 1996. ISBN 2950986803. UKClimbing.com

Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 2 - Published Alpine Club (2002) - ISBN 0-900523-58-1. amazon.com

Gino Buscaini, MONTE BIANCO, Vol. II, Guida dei Monti d'Italia, 1983. stella-alpina.com

Link - MountainArea

MountainArea

Aiguille de Rochefort at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
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mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.


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